APP下载

楠溪美食好滋味

2021-06-24

文化交流 2021年4期

“江头风景日堪醉,酒美蟹肥橙橘香。”宋人真山民在《永嘉秋夕》诗中感慨,楠溪江头,不仅风景让人沉醉,当地的美酒、肥蟹、橙橘更是让人痴醉。

永嘉显名始于东晋,隋朝设永嘉县,取“水长而美”之意。那水,便是楠溪江,江上鸥鸟出没,两岸青山叠翠,竹树茂密,景色如画。这里有江南最美的水路,更有楠溪江的山珍和永嘉当地独特的民间小吃。游楠溪江畔,步青山之间,品特色美食,怎一个好字了得!

The name of Yongjia began to be known in the Eastern Jin dynasty (317-420), and it became a county in the Sui dynasty (581-618). Literally “long and beautiful river”, Yongjia is notable for its picturesque scenery, with the Nanxi River, from which Yongjia derived its name, coursing through the county from north to south. One of the most beautiful Jiangnan (south of the Yangtze River) waterways, the Nanxi River is lined with green mountains and lush bamboo forests on both sides. “The scenery at the river head gets people drunk, with fine wine, fat crabs, oranges so sweet,“ a poet writes of Yongjia. While travelling, dont forget to try local treats and delicacies, and learn about its culinary traditions that can only be found in Yongjia and along the Nanxi River!

永嘉麦饼

Yongjia Wheat Cake

永嘉麦饼已经有1000余年的历史,由花坦村朱氏先人所创。当地多沙地,宜种麦,百姓将麦磨成面粉,以麦粉包裹咸菜和鲜肉煎烤而成,遂名麦饼,具有形体大、饼皮厚、馅料丰富、经多次煎烤的特点,因味道鲜美而受到欢迎。

随着朱氏子弟向全国扩散,吃麦饼的习惯也逐渐走向了全国,麦饼作为一种价廉物美的小吃被各地接受。如江西婺源朱氏九代孙朱熹,是宋朝著名的理学大师,就喜欢吃麦饼,有一次他到某儒生家做客,儒生特地为他制作了以麦饼为饭,以葱汤为羹,以此来款待朱熹。朱熹食后口占一绝:“葱汤麦饭两相宜,葱暖丹田麦疗饥。”

《明史》记载,嘉靖皇帝时,为了表达对先祖的怀念和对粮食丰收的渴望,把四月八日的不落夹改为麦饼,自此,麦饼正式成为大明王朝宴席的主角,称为麦饼宴。至今,在各地的温州人,思念家乡的时候,就会想起家乡的麦饼。

With over a history of over 1,000 years, Yongjia wheat cake was believed to be first made by the Zhu family in Huatan village. Instead of rice, the local soil is more suited for wheat, which, when harvested, is ground into flour. Wrap pickles and fresh meat into flour doughs and then fry and bake them several times, you get the wheat cakes.

One big fan of the wheat cakes is Zhu Xi (1130-1200), philosopher and one of the most influential Neo-Confucianists. Another one is Emperor Jiajing (1507-1567) of the Ming dynasty (1368-1644), who even designated wheat cakes as a dish of the imperial banquets.

Over the years, as the descendants of the Zhu family brought the wheat cake to different places, it has become a national favorite.

楠溪素面

Nanxi Plain Noodle

亦稱索面,是一种易消化的面条,对肠胃有益,适合小孩和老人食用。其直径通常小于1.3毫米,温州各县均有制作,而以历史悠久论,首推永嘉。……

登录APP查看全文