Guangzhou Zoom-i Cosmetic Co.,Ltd.,China

Abstract Since 2020,with the advent of the COVID-19 epidemic,the upsurge of the concept of “Constituent community” in the cosmetics industry has gradually subsided.The phenomenon of only focuing on the components but not on the synergies of the product system has gradually ebbed.On the other hand,with the popularity of the concept of industrial Cannabis sativa and Cannabis sativa cosmetics both at home and abroad,the Cannabis sativa cosmetics that replace the single effect propaganda of the Constituent community have been increasingly recognized by consumers,and industrial Cannabis sativa is increasingly widely used in cosmetics.For the development of Cannabis sativa cosmetics in the times of “Secondary-Constituent community”,the market status of Cannabis sativa cosmetics in China and abroad was analyzed in this paper.At the same time,the future development prospect of domestic Cannabis sativa cosmetics was preliminarily estimated and prospected,which was helpful for the development of Cannabis sativa cosmetics and provided the evaluation basis for the investment and development of domestic Cannabis sativa cosmetics.

Key words constituent community; Cannabis sativa cosmetics; Cannabidiol; market status

The passion and fewer of “constituent community”

Since 2017,with the popularization of science by foreign brand The Ordinary,the name of the main component of the product is directly used as the product name,and the laboratory and component research are repeatedly emphasized in the process of brand marketing,thus the word “Constituent community” of cosmetics is born.The “Constituent community” group believes that setting aside all external factors such as the publicity of skin care products and the face value of the products,going straight to the ingredient list,exploring the meanings behind those crude chemical terms and judging the efficacy from a professional perspective are the basis for deciding whether to buy the products.In 2017,with the skyrocketing downloads of Beauty Evolution APP,the number of “Constituent community” gradually increased,and the products with “component” as the main selling point also ushered in an unprecedented outbreak in 2018.The newly established 4-year-old skin care brand Home Facial Pro(HFP) made use of the upsurge of “Constituent community” to make its way onto the TOP 10 list of Tmall’s 2018 “Double 11”beauty makeup,becoming a dark horse in the skin care industry.The brand takes “caring skin with components”as the concept,and the essence products named by components include HFP hyaluronic acid essence,nicotinamide essence,ceramide essence,lactobionic acid essence,retinol essence,astaxanthin essence,etc.At the beginning of 2019,many well-known domestic brands also began to promote skin care products with components as selling points,including KANS,GOGI,MANTING,CHANDO and so on.

However,by the end of 2019,the market and consumers had begun to suffer from “component”fatigue.The brand HFP,which focuses on“component” ,performed “dumb fire” on the Double 11 of 2019,dropping out of Tmall's TOP10 beauty brands list in the Double 11 in 2019.On the contrary,claims of “soothing and moisturizing” and “multicultural” have received more attention.Thus another new term “Secondary-Constituent community”was born in the domestic cosmetics industry.From the second half of 2019,This group began to stop proposing a single component,but instead focused on the mutual influence of the active ingredients in the formula and the synergy of multiple ingredients in the formula system.

Times of “Secondary-Constituent community”,the rise of Cannabis sativa cosmetics

Since 2020,with the advent of the COVID-19 epidemic,the upsurge of the concept of “Constituent community” in the cosmetics industry has gradually subsided.Since most of the “Constituent community”are the new generation of Z of after 95s or even after 00s.On the other hand,with the popularization of the concept of industrial Cannabis sativa and Cannabis sativa cosmetics at home and abroad,the Cannabis sativa cosmetics which replace the singlefunction propaganda of “Constituent community”are increasingly recognized by consumers,and the application of industrial Cannabis sativa in cosmetics is becoming more and more extensive.

Before the first half of 2019,the domestic search engines all blocked “Cannabis” as a sensitive word,so the marketing and publicity could not proceed smoothly.Since the beginning of 2019,pioneers in the domestic Cannabis sativa cosmetics industry have actively carried out popular science work on Cannabis sativa cosmetics,since September 2019,BAIDU,360,Headlines and other search engines have let go of the Cannabis sativa cosmetics search block,since October,Taobao e-commerce platform has released the search for Cannabis sativa cosmetics.With the promotion of science popularization,Cannabis sativa cosmetics are more and more popular with consumers.

Cannabis sativa cosmetics concept at home and abroad

Industrial Cannabis sativa concept

Industrial Cannabis sativa refers to the industrial cultivated varieties of hemp with the content of Tetrahydrocannabinol (THC) less than 0.3% cultivated by biological breeding technology.[1,2]Industrial Cannabis sativa concept cosmetics refer to cosmetics to which raw materials derived from industrial cannabis plants are added,including cosmetics to which cannabis sativa seed oil,cannabis sativa fruit and cannabis sativa leaf extract are added.

The latest EU regulation,commission decision(EU) 2019/701 dated April 5,2019 lists as raw materials that can be used on cosmetic labels,including Cannabis sativa leaf extract.

International Cannabis sativa cosmetics concept

Industrial Cannabis sativa cosmetics in EU and North America are generally classified into the cannabinoid cannabidiol (hereinafter referred to as CBD) cosmetic category.Early foreign CBD skin care products mainly consisted of hemp seed oil,mainly including hemp seed oil massage oil and daub type hemp seed oil nourishing mask.

With the development of overseas Cannabis sativa cosmetics,from 2017,CBD has been the main component in Cannabis sativa leaf extract which has become a sought-after component in overseas CBD cosmetics.[3]CBD is the most abundant cannabinoid in the full spectrum oil of Cannabis sativa leaves.Internationally,CBD is mainly used to solve the skin problems such as dryness,eczema,aging,sensitivity,pruritus,acne and so on in the field of skin care.It is considered to be an excellent skin repair and antioxidation component.

Domestic Cannabis sativa cosmetics concept

Due to strict compliance with theSingle Convention on Narcotic Drugs; 1961,the concept of industrial Cannabis sativa cosmetics in China started late.On December 23,2015,China Food and Drug Administration issued the Catalogue of Used Cosmetic Raw Materials (2015 Edition),listing03122 cannabis sativa leaf extract,01777 cannabis sativa fruit and 01778 cannabis sativa seed oilas the components of the catalogue of used cosmetic raw materials.At present,the Cannabis sativa leaf extract is only allowed to be applied to the cosmetic industry.The cosmetic industry has become the only legitimate application area for the domestic industrial Cannabis sativa leaf application.

Different from CBD cosmetics in the international market,domestic Cannabis sativa concept cosmetics mainly promote Cannabis sativa leaf extract from the beginning,and most brands take Cannabis sativa leaf mask,Cannabis sativa leaf essence,Cannabis sativa leaf spray and other products as the breakthrough point,and their efficacy claims to be mainly relieving,repairing,acne removal,antioxidation and anti-aging.Different from European and American cosmetics companies,CBD facial masks in Europe and America mainly use daubtype pasty facial masks,while the domestic ones are mainly mask stickers,only a few enterprises have launched the washless daub-type Cannabis sativa leaf pasty facial mask.

At present,since cannabidiol CBD is not listed in the Catalogue of Used Cosmetic Raw Materials,there is a risk of violation of cosmetic regulations in promoting the concept of CBD.Cannabis sativa leaf extract is the core component of domestic Cannabis sativa cosmetics,and CBD,as the highest cannabinoid component in the full spectrum oil of Cannabis sativa leaf extract,has become the focus of research and application of industrial Cannabis sativa at home and abroad.The full spectrum oil of Cannabis sativa leaf extract is rich in CBD and other cannabinoid component such as CBN,CBC,CBL,CBG,CBE,Dronabinol,etc.[4,5]In addition,there are cannabinoids,beta-sitosterol,alpha-myrrh,and other terpene components.[6-9]In 2016,the research results of reference 10 showed that cannabinoid phenol,tetrahydrocannabidiol and hypocannabidiol significantly reduced arachidonic acid-induced acnelike sebum production,and all the cannabinoids in the study had anti-inflammatory effects.[10]

Current status of international Cannabis sativa cosmetics

As early as 1998,British brand The Body Shop began to launch skin care products containing Cannabis sativa seed oil.The main function of Cannabis sativa seed oil is to provide sufficient moisture for dry skin which makes dry skin rejuvenate.Since 2018,the international Cannabis sativa cosmetics have changed.CBD has become the focus of the Cannabis sativa cosmetics with its unique functions of anti-oxidation,anti-aging,wrinkle removal,and relieving stress.While Cannabis sativa seed oil gradually diluted in marketing claims.Cannabis sativa seed oil-based cosmetics in the North American market,commonly known as Hemp Oil,include hemp seed oil antioxidant massage oil and soothing massage essence oil (mainly for body SPA) with CBD ingredient.In 2017,the British brand Revolution launched the latest skin care series,the essence of which contains CBD oil.In 2018,Estee Lauder’s brand Origins entered the booming market of Cannabis sativa skin care products,and collaborated with Sephora to launch the new paste mask “Hello,Calm”.The special feature of this paste mask is the use of Cannabis sativa seed oil,which is made of Cannabis sativa seeds and has moisturizing and antioxidant effects on skin.

Since 2018,an increasing number of cosmetic companies have been involved in the field of Cannabis sativa cosmetics.The British brand Revolution launched its new essence in 2018,which contains CBD oil.In addition,overseas companies engaged in Cannabis sativa skin care include Care Garden in the United States,The Body Shop in Britain and Kiehl’s also have Cannabis sativa seed oil products.In December 2018,NeimanMarcus launched 8 CBD brands including Sagely Naturals,Cannuka,Cannabliss Organics and IldiPekar in the beauty area of its 5 stores; In November 2018,LabtoBeauty,a beauty store,also launched its first CBD line of beauty products.

Early in 2019,investment company LBEquity(LBE) announced an investment of $50 million in Standard Dose,a platform dedicated to achieving health through natural therapeutic products,including education and sales of CBDbased beauty products.

In February 2019,Holland＆Barrett,a British retailer,was the first chain store to launch its own CBD beauty product line in the commercial street,launching the Eos Scientific CBD skin care series,claiming that 100% natural formula with the addition of Cannabis sativa seed extract and CBD can regulate sebum production and slow down signs of aging.In May 2019,the beauty brand Sephora expanded its sales of CBD products,which began to be ordered on May 7 and went on sale on May 10.Sephora also opted to sell Saint Jane’s luxury beauty serum,which contains 500 mg of CBD and is designed to provide a healthy skin for its customers.Saint Jane claims to be a professional manufacturer of CBD products,not just a profit-seeking brand.

In October 2019,European CosmeticsDesign caught up with the goal of the French Cannabis startup company Ho Karan to further expand and continue product innovation and product portfolio expansion in Europe,and stated that it would continue to use all parts of the Cannabis sativa plant,including the flower part,in future new product development.At present,the Cannabis sativa series under the brand“Indie” of Ho Karan are in stock in more than 900 Sephora stores in Europe.

Colombia-based CBD skincare brand Kuida,was first launched in Latin America in November 2019 and then expanded to the US and UK.The company plans to open retail stores in the UK in the first quarter of 2020 and will eventually expand to Spain,Germany and the rest of Europe once countryspecific requirements are met.

In January 2020,the parent company of cleaning giant Colgate-Palmolive acquired Hello Products,a toothpaste brand focused on natural oral care,and launched the first CBD product,CBD Lipstick,the month after the acquisition.This action of Colgate-Palmolive has fired the first shot of the multinational FMCG giant to stride towards CBD cosmetics.It is worth mentioning that Hello Products has launched a series of oral care products such as toothpaste,mouthwash and dental floss,all of which are mainly produced with hemp seed oil.Hello Products is transitioning from Cannabis sativa seed oil to CBD,with a significant shift in product composition and efficacy messaging.

On February 19,2020,Avon launched the first CBD skin care product “Green Goddess”.The product is a facial cleansing oil based on CBD ingredients and contains 99% natural ingredients including CBD,sunflower seed oil,jojoba oil,turmeric and squalene oil.The product has now passed skin tests such as vegan,fragrance-free,hypoallergenic and its formula is designed to help the average consumer resolve and soothe stressed skin.The oil is now available for $50 (about RMB 351.20) on Avon's official website (www.avon.com)and in some licensed stores.

At the end of February 2020,Sephora,a beauty retail giant under the French LVMH Group,announced the launch of “CBD Standards” based on the company’s internal control standards,i.e.,the standards for CBD cosmetics,becoming the first retailer in the United States to formulate a cosmetic CBD composition specification.The CBD standards formulated by Sephora mainly included four aspects: the full-spectrum or broad-spectrum CBD to be included should be from hemp naturally grown in the United States,and isolates should not be used; CBD shall be subjected to quality and purity tests for at least 3 times to ensure source safety; It can provide an Analysis Certificate (COA) that can prove that the actual content of CBD complies with the labeling declaration; All products must conform to the “Sephora Cleaning Standard” (which specifies a list of prohibited harmful ingredients).

Current status of domestic Cannabis sativa cosmetics

In 2017,Beijing HANYI Bio-Technology Co.,Ltd.,a subsidiary of Hanma Group,applied the Cannabis sativa essence containing high concentration of CBD to skin care products and launched the Cannaclear™ acne removal series,which was the first reported Cannabis sativa functional skin care product in China.In the same year,Shanghai CBD Biotechnology Co.,Ltd.went public with CBD BIO TECH® brand Cannabis sativa cosmetics.Since 2018,more and more pharmaceutical industries have been involved in Cannabis sativa cosmetics.Yunnan Pan long Yun hai Pharmaceutical Co.,Ltd.has listed a series of Cannabis sativa cosmetics represented by sylvapure brand Cannabis sativa antiwrinkle mask.

With the popularity of domestic industrial Cannabis sativa concept stocks and the popularization of industrial Cannabis sativa cosmetics concept at the beginning of 2019,more and more industrial Cannabis sativa cosmetics emerged: Shenzhen Yinina Cosmetics Co.,Ltd.launched an overnight mask containing Cannabis sativa leaf extract in March 2019,Guangzhou Sanqi Personal Care Co.,Ltd.launched a mask paste containing Cannabis sativa leaf extract in April 2019 and Shanghai COSMAX launched a skin care product containing Cannabis sativa seed oil in June.

On June 19,2019,Kpc Pharmaceuticals,Inc.established the “Industrial Cannabis Business Unit”and “Great Health Business Unit”,which used the core raw materials of industrial Cannabis sativa to create the KPC relaxing allergy skincare series.The products include essence,toner,lotion,facial mask paste and facial cleanser with Cannabis sativa leaf extract.In July 2019,6 Cannabis sativa products under the brand of Zhenshiming® under Conba Group Co.,Ltd.were successfully filed,and at the same time,the publicity of Zhenshiming® Cannabis sativa peony gel eye mask was launched at the homepage of Zhenshiming Tmall Store,with the specifications of 60 pieces at a preferential price of RMB 129.In August,the MEKOO® Cannabis sativa soothing and repair series was successfully filed,and in September,the Kpc Pharmaceuticals,Inc.KPC®Cannabis sativa cosmetics were successfully filed and officially launched.

Two Cannabis sativa facial masks GODIVEN®brand from Shanghai Godiven Pharmaceutical Co.,Ltd.were listed and obtained the angel round investment from Japan.In October,2019,Jilin Jiuxin Group launched the first Cannabis sativa cosmetics Man Ting Cannabis sativa soothing repair kit,and subsequently planned to launch a series of Cannabis sativa soothing repair skincare products,which won the popularity of the market.

In December,2019,INBRIZ CBD,a domestic industrial Cannabis sativa brand,recently completed the round A financing,which is mainly used for channel construction and brand building of INBRIZ CBD’s brand in the domestic and international markets.The company’s product line around the daily chemical and skin care products to launch a series of Cannabis sativa cosmetics,including CBD mask,toner,lotion,essence and cream.

On October 15,2019,Yunnan Baiyao Group Co.,Ltd intended to pay HK $730 million for the convertible bonds of Ban Loong Holdings Limited.YUNNAN BAIYAO GROUP CO.,LTD and Ban Loong Holdings Limited will continue to cooperate in the trade of personal care products,plant extraction and ancillary monitoring,logistics,import and export and related services.This cooperation is considered as a signal for Yunnan Baiyao Group Co.,Ltd.to accelerate the distribution of the industrial Cannabis sativa industry and develop the Cannabis sativa concept care product business.In October 2019,niche brand SIPOVI launched the Cannabis sativa leaf soothing and repairing mask,which exploded to sell more than 3,200 boxes in the week before the Double 11.Another brand,Simpcare® Cannabis sativa Leaf Intensive Restoring Essence,has quickly become popular in RED social networking software,becoming a star brand in domestic Cannabis sativa cosmetics.In 2020,more and more enterprises and brands enter the field of Cannabis sativa cosmetics.In March,2020,One leaf Brand launched a Cannabis sativa leaf acneremoving and soothing repair mask with the addition of Cannabis sativa leaf extract and Cannabis sativa seed oil,which was brought into the market directly by online celebrity via Viya,becoming the first Cannabis sativa cosmetics to be brought into the market directly.

In April,2020,the Ye Mi brand of Shanghai Zhimi Technology Co.,Ltd.,the first Cannabis sativa cosmetics,Cannabis sativa soothing and repairing hydrating mask,was officially listed,and became a sponsorship gift for the 520 China Industrial Cannabis Festival series activities sponsored by the Asian Industrial Cannabis Association (ACU),which was well received by the Cannabis sativa industry stakeholders.

In May,2020,Happiness＆Beauty Cosmetics Corporation Canton officially launched the ZMC brand Cannabis sativa leaf soothing and repairing series of cosmetics,including 10 SKUs such as Cannabis sativa leaf acne-removing and repairing mask,Cannabis sativa leaf soothing and repairing essence,and Cannabis sativa leaf dandruff-removing and soothing and repairing shampoo,which became the first and second-tier brands to launch Cannabis sativa cosmetics in the domestic cosmetics industry.The brand's five-piece cannabinoids repair kit which is sold in the VIPSHOP flagship store,has become the highlight of the VIPSHOP 618 campaign.

In May 2020,Qingdao Yishijia Cosmetics Co.,Ltd.launched a series of cosmetics for soothing repair of Cannabis sativa leaves under the brand of Ben cao qian shang,which utilizes the soothing and repairing effects of Cannabis sativa leaf as well as antibacterial and anti-inflammatory effects to provide complete solutions for sensitive and acne-prone skin.In July,Chinese brand Hua Mulan Xi launched the Cannabis sativa leaf soothing and repairing facial mask and a Cannabis sativa leaf concealer repair cushion products into the Cannabis sativa cosmetics market.In July,Linyuzhen,a local brand in Yunnan,launched a skin care series including 9 SKUs of Cannabis sativa leaf soothing repair series,mainly promoting the combination of micro-e-commerce and in-store care,which has won great favor from consumers.

In June 2020,Huashang Health (Beijing)Technology Co.,Ltd.,a company owned by New Era Health Industry(Group)Co.,Ltd.,launched a series of soothing and repairing cosmetics such as Soulfort®Cannabis sativa leaf Soothing and Repairing Essence,Cannabis sativa leaf Soothing and Repairing Spray and Cannabis sativa leaf dandruff soothing and repairing Shampoo,becoming the first direct selling company to list Cannabis sativa cosmetics.After the first batch of 50,000 sets of Cannabis sativa leaf series of the brand went on the market,it was deeply liked by consumers and sold out.In July 2020,HARUKI,a brand owned by MARUBI,and VAQUA,a brand owned by Yalan International Group,also launched a series of Cannabis sativa leaf repair and skincare products.

Prospects of domestic Cannabis sativa cosmetics market

With the booming development of international Cannabis CBD cosmetics,the online search volume of CBD cosmetology increased by 370% in the first two months of 2019 alone.The professional investigation institution predicts that the international CBD cosmetology products will reach the scale of$25 billion(RMB 175.59 billion),accounting for 15% of the whole skin care products market.If the prescription of dermatology products is replaced by CBD skin care products,the market scale will be further expanded.

With the heat wave of beauty and skincare products from overseas CBD,domestic Cannabis sativa cosmetics are learning to walk while popularizing science.In 2019,the industrial Cannabis sativa cosmetics had a preliminary development in China.According to the preliminary statistics,by the end of 2019,the domestic Cannabis sativa cosmetics output value would be RMB60 to RMB80 million,making a difficult start and lurching forward under the premise of being deeply questioned.In 2020,Cannabis sativa cosmetics has gradually become an unavoidable topic in the cosmetics industry.2020 will be the “first year of Cannabis sativa cosmetics”leading to a new explosive concept.

The sudden COVID-19 pneumonia epidemic in early 2020 has brought troubles to consumers’ skin care.Skin problems such as facial scars caused by wearing a mask for a long time and acne eruption,allergy,thick pores,uneven facial color patches and the like in the local hot and humid small environment under the mask are deeply troubled by various“mask faces”.Aiming at the problem of face masks,Cannabis sativa cosmetics grasped the “crisis” and effectively solved the above problems through its unique efficacy of soothing and repairing,antioxidation,skin brightening,acne removal and antiinflammation,becoming the savior of the “face masks” under the black swans of the epidemic.

Since 2020,Commission on Narcotics Drugs(CND) has carried forward the voting on WHO’s recommendations on Cannabis sativa control in December in a step-by-step manner from the first half of the year.Regardless of the favorable promotion effect of the WHO’s Cannabis sativa regulatory proposal voted by the end of 2020,domestic industrial Cannabis sativa cosmetics will continue to receive attention and explosion.According to the preliminary statistics of the industrial Cannabis sativa industry chain and the people involved in the Cannabis sativa cosmetics industry,by the end of August 2020,the domestic Cannabis sativa cosmetics output value has exceeded RMB 600 million,and it is conservatively estimated that the output value of Cannabis sativa cosmetics will RMB 800 million in 2020.With the continuous popularization of science and rapid growth of Cannabis sativa cosmetics in China,professional consulting agencies estimate that the annual output value of domestic Cannabis sativa cosmetics from 2021 to 2023 will reach RMB 1.2 billion,RMB 2 billion and RMB 3.5 billion respectively.

With the change of the concept of industrial Cannabis sativa at home and abroad,the legal scope of industrial Cannabis sativa in China will be larger and larger,and the cosmetic application of industrial Cannabis sativa will be more and more extensive.In the times of “Secondary-Constituent community”,Cannabis sativa cosmetics will become the first choice for medium-and high-end skin care products to safely,effectively and quickly solve the skin problems of sensitive skin,acne-prone skin and aging skin in the future!