文/张科德 译/郑映梅 刘玥

约翰·科尔多斯基（中文名：张科德，1953年出生），澳大利亚籍，中国四川乐山师范学院旅游学院教授，之前曾在泰国国立法政大学创新学院任职。在进入学术界之前，张科德是亚太旅游协会（PATA）的副首席执行官，在那里的15年，他一直是旅游行业的前沿分析师。至今，他仍然是亚太旅游协会（PATA）首席执行官特别顾问。

Mr. John Koldowski (1953) from Australia is currently a Professor within the School of Tourism at Leshan Normal University, Sichuan Province, China. Prior to that appointment, John was with the College of Innovation at Thailand's Thammasat University. Before entering academia, Mr. Koldowski was Deputy CEO of PATA where over afifteen-year span he came to be regarded as one of the travel and tourism sector's leading analysts. He still maintains his relationship with PATA through his appointment as a special advisor to the CEO.

To say that China has experienced unprecedented growth and development over the last 40 years, is obviously true but to my mind at least,it is also somewhat of an understatement. Unprecedented, yes, but on a scale and with a speed that defies imagination. The modern infrastructure alone lends testament to the rapid expansion of the physical dimensions of society.

In addition, the socio-economic strength of Mainland society can be seen to have also developed very rapidly, especially when you consider that back in 1978 the GDP per capita was, according to the World Bank,just over US$156. By 2016 however-the latest year for which data is available - that metric had risen to just over US$8,123 per capita, an increase of more than 50-fold over that period.

In practical terms, this also means that more than 12.4 million people were lifted out of poverty in 2016 and the government aim is to aims to continue on that path and to totally eliminate poverty across the country by 2020. The human impact of that is enormous.

毫无疑问，中国在过去的40年里经历了前所未有的成长和发展，但在我看来，这种说法仍对中国有些低估。就中国发展的规模与速度而言，用“前所未有”形容固然无误，但远不如“超乎想象”更为贴切。仅凭现代化基础设施建设，便足以证明其物质社会实力的快速攀升。

中国社会经济实力强劲的发展势头还可以从以下数据得到印证：根据世界银行的数据，1978年中国人均GDP刚达到156美元，而到了2016年就已经达到了8123美元，较之前增加了50多倍。实际上，这也意味着2016年全国农村贫困人口减少了1240万人。政府将持续着力，确保到2017年再脱贫1000万人以上，力争到2020年全面消除贫困，这对人们的生活将产生巨大的影响。

不管是对国家的发展，还是对个人的进步，科技作为助推器，对中国的发展无疑都起着举足轻重的作用。从国家层面来看，高速铁路网不断扩张，居民住宿设施以及机场不断增建；从个人层面来看，生活中的一切都能在网上进行。根据《中国日报》报道的一份由中国电子商务研究中心发布的报告显示，2016年中国的网上零售交易额高达5.3万亿元（合7700亿美元），同比增长39.1%，创下了历史新高。中国由此成为全球最大的网络零售市场。

旅游业，一个我长期关注的领域，也向我们展示了中国社会经济的健康发展，以及中国大陆游客对世界和周边文化日益浓厚的兴趣。自2012年以来，按照国际旅游消费指数，中国大陆居民的国际旅游开支高居世界出境旅客支出首位。

2016年，中国旅客对世界旅游业的贡献率逾2600亿美元，是第二大活跃出境市场（美国）的两倍多，而20世纪末（2000年）却仅131亿美元。另外，国内旅游业从20世纪80年代中期的2亿人次猛增到2017年的48.8亿人次。这些统计数据让我们看到当今中国人口的流动性之高和经济实力之强。

伴随着硬件设施的发展，人们的心理也有了相应积极的发展，这在今天的年轻人中显得尤为明显。他们强大自信，拥有超乎寻常的好奇天性；他们热情似火，可以融化寒冬里的坚冰厚雪。尊重是条双行道，只要你愿意花时间去赢得他们的信任和尊重，同时给予他们同样的信任与尊重，你将收获一份如同他们一样强大且永恒的友谊。

游历中国

从观看丝绸之路论坛上投射在原始又静谧的长城上的国家艺术激光灯表演，到欣赏100名厨师完美地将面团舞成100份面条，多次访问中国的经历给我留下了很多美好回忆。我初次漫步戈壁沙漠也是在中国，骑着骆驼，摇曳在沙漠海洋中，穿过甘肃的沙丘去观看令人震撼的日出。如今我定居中国多年，却从未感到孤单。

我曾在北方一些小岛上评估其旅游发展潜力，甚至用当地的蝎子来烹饪。很多当地人没见过西方人，在他们看来，我像是一个四肢长着白色毛发的外星人。许多看到我和我同事的当地人会走到我们身边，抚摸、拉扯我们胳膊上的汗毛，天真无邪地咯咯笑。

我们引来了一大群人，其中主要是一些学龄儿童。他们一路跟随我们，甚至跟进到街上的各种商店里去。当我们走到路边摊买来小吃尝一尝的时候，他们面露讶色。就这样，我们还与许多人留了合影。

蝎子“事件”特别有趣。当得知一群外国人正在当地一家餐馆里品尝地道佳肴的时候，几乎所有的用餐者以及餐厅的员工和厨师都挤进了我们的包间看热闹、拍照。我只能说“大家都过得很愉快”。虽然像这样的事本身就会惹人兴致，但是我们沿途遇到的并与之交谈的人使我的这段回忆更加刻骨铭心。

无论考究与否，人们都有一个共同的特点。我们遇到的每一个人见到我们都很欣喜，交谈时既体贴又礼貌。从年长者到年幼者，很多人都会大方地靠近我们，用他们仅知道的几个单词与我们交流，比如“你好”和“我很好，谢谢你”。大家对我们都很感兴趣，也很好奇我们在他们的国家做些什么。近些年来，英语和其他一些语言一样，已经被更广泛应用和理解。

当时我们没有人会说中文，他们中（除了翻译）也没有人能用英语交谈，点餐成了笑声不断、无比享受的过程。无数手指一边指着菜单上的图片一边指着邻桌点的菜，直到最后大功告成。这绝对堪称国际化的猜字谜游戏啊！

趣闻以外亦有感伤。2008年的“5·12”汶川大地震给四川以及当地人带来了毁灭性的破坏与抹不平的伤痛。我无心痛斥那次地震的残酷无情，只想讴歌那些地震受害者坚韧不拔、迅速复苏的精神。去参观汶川遗址，看到那些为纪念在地震中死去的人而建立的纪念博物馆，定使人心如刀绞。好在地震中被摧毁的那些城镇和道路很快就重现活力，当地的居民也恢复了生计。如今，他们和地球上任何其他地方的人们一样，热情洋溢，充满希望。

在过去的20年里，每一年我都会访问中国数次，老实说，我虽然熟悉很多地域、少数民族和当地居民，但我仍不能说我了解这个国家以及这个国家的人民，我每一天都在继续探索这个国度。对于那些已经和即将参观北京、上海或去四川看大熊猫，认为这样就相当于游览了整个中国的外国旅客来说，我为他们的管中窥豹而感到痛心。不管在大城市，还是在偏远农村，与当地人交流，品尝他们的食物，领略他们的文化，才能带来淳朴却意义非凡的乐趣。

每样东西都会给那些分享经历或沉浸其中的人带来极大的乐趣。比如食物，它不仅仅是菜品，在有新熟识朋友和同事的宴席上，敢于冒险的精神和欢宴才是更重要的体验。我曾经经历过多次厨师们热切地向我解释一些菜品的起源与演变，并且与我一同沉浸在享受中国美食的欢乐气氛中。

从杭州西湖的大闸蟹、大连的海参到著名的四川火锅，每道菜都挑战着味蕾，极具特色。同桌的同伴、厨师介绍的有关菜品起源和创新的细节，这些都让用餐变得更加愉快。此外，中国人对自己的文化以及随其演变的食物的津津乐道，使我们的用餐变得丰富多彩。

发现乐山

我虽然看到了很多，也经历了很多，但直到今天我仍没有停止了解中国的脚步。目前我就职于四川省乐山师范学院（LSNU），乐山是四川省一座很漂亮的城市。在这里，我很幸运能够从师院的学生和教职员工及当地人那里对乐山及其文化有更深入的了解。

虽然之前我曾去过成都多次，但我对距离成都仅2个小时车程的乐山及周边全然不知。被联合国教科文组织列为世界遗产的大佛，大佛脚下的三江汇流，峨眉山的奇峰等，这些对我来说都很陌生。

这些景点风景优美如画，历史底蕴厚重。但在我看来，这里的人们吸引着外地人到这里安居乐业，正是他们使乐山成为一座具有吸引力的城市。这里的少数民族、山民、渔民和市民都有自己的精彩故事。他们为自己的传承感到自豪，并且渴望也愿意向任何给予他们时间和机会的人们讲述。他们溢于言表的开放心态值得你我去感受。

一看见乐山，我就立刻决意要深入地去了解这座城市的历史、文化及其周边一切：去看19世纪最深的盐井，去参观传统的手工酱油酿造作坊，去感受散发着自然活力的当地人的劳作与态度。

清新的空气，新鲜的食物，与当地居民的交流，虽然交流通常借助电子翻译，但是这些使我在这里度过的每一天都充斥着鲜活与新奇。在当地工作、购物、用餐、交谈，我和妻子总能捕捉到新鲜感。

显而易见，当地人的交流方式和文化都给我留下了深深的烙印，这也是我亲眼见证的过去40年内发生的最显著变化。这种变化仍然在持续。

目前，就拿乐山师范学院的学生来说，他们勤奋学习并非仅仅是为了获得学士学位，而是真正想掌握并且运用所学到的知识。出于纯粹的求知欲，而并非鲁莽的挑衅，这些学生催我多教多授，而我也愿意传授给他们一些有所裨益的知识。

乐山师范学院的课程设置也是别具一格，学校将培养学生软硬技能的课程巧妙融合在一起，就比如他们把舞蹈、音乐和话剧看得与经济管理专业同等重要。我不得不说这样的方式令人耳目一新，而且必定会培养出一支能力均衡、适应市场需求的人才队伍。

另外，尤其有意思的是这里的师生都乐于尝试一切新的事物。失败并不会击垮他们，反而一次次的唱歌、跳舞、演出、学习，让他们愈挫愈勇。

教职工也一样。我和我的妻子刚到这里时，遇到了热情、慷慨又善良的教职工，这让我们有点儿受宠若惊。我们对此心怀感激，希望有一天能够回报他们的这份温暖。这些年来，我还注意到一个现象：这里的教师才华横溢，并不像很多其他学校的教职工那样仅仅执着于某些领域。他们十分擅长沟通和讨论，在不同层次上和不同课题上都有相当不错的造诣，对国际事务的了解和兴趣也在不断更新。

说到能力的广泛性，就在最近，学校的每一个二级学院都为年终晚会准备自己的表演。节目形式有唱歌、舞蹈、音乐、诗歌，还有讲述中国文化中茶的重要性的独白。教职员工、管理者与学生们的表演让我惊叹不已。以前，我一直坚信科学和艺术是分开的，我认为他们“永远不会相遇”。但是这些表演彻底改变了我的看法！

反观我以前的观点，使这一切成为可能的原因在于中国精神的诞生与传承，人民本身就是一种不可忽视的力量。兢兢业业、自信开放的新思想、新思维和新概念，是今天中国人的典型特点，更是数千年来薪火相传的命脉。

从造纸术到白手起家的概念，到独轮车，甚至到如今被誉为“丝绸之路”的海上和陆上贸易路线，古代中国人向世界输出了太多太多。今天的中国人民依然拥有相同的理念和创新的实践精神，我们需要做的就是睁开眼睛，体会每一个人得到了什么；同时，还要像中国人一样，活在当下，享受过往。

如世界上许多其他文化一样，今天的中国人愿意提供宾至如归的服务。需要强调的是，请勿把服务和仆从混为一谈，仆从是不会被任何文化所接纳、所包容的。人人平等，这是思维方式上最重要的变化，也是过去40年来的一个重大变化。

As an enabler, technology has certainly stimulated and allowed much of this development, both at the national and the individual level.Nationally of course we can see the development of the high-speed rail network, the plethora of accommodation establishments that are continually being erected, the airport developments and much more besides. At the individual level, the adoption rate of technology is such that virtually everything is-or can be-conducted online.

According to a report released by China's e-commerce research center and reported on by the China Daily newspaper, China's online retail market volume hit a record high in 2016, with a year-on- year growth of 39.1 percent to 5.3 trillion yuan ($770 billion). This makes China the world's largest online retail market.

Traveling in China

Tourism-the area in which I have been most active for longer than I care to mention-also gives us a clue as to the socio-economic health of the people of Mainland China as well as to their increasing interest in the world and the cultures around them. Since 2012, the residents of Mainland China have topped the world's list of outbound travellers as measured by international tourism expenditure.

As of 2016, the value of these Mainland travellers to all parts of the world was worth in excess of US$260 billion, more than double that of the second most active outbound market, the USA. In addition, the growth in domestic travel has exploded from just 200 million trips in the early to mid-1980s to an expected 4.88 billion in 2017. Those statistics give some idea of the mobility andfinancial wherewithal of these Mainland Chinese today.

In concert with developments in the physical hardware, there has been a commensurate and positive growth in the psyche of the people,something that is especially noticeable in the young adults of today.They are stronger, more self-assured and incredibly inquisitive by nature. They are also as warm-hearted as the winters in parts of the country, are cold. If you take the time to earn their trust and respect and deliver the same in return, you will be rewarded with friendships that are as strong and lasting as the people themselves. Respect is a two-way street.

I have so many fond memories during my frequent visits and now my residency in China that it is hard to isolate just one or two. From attending a Silk Road forum and witnessing a state-of-the-art laser light show projected onto an original and still-standing section of the Great Wall, to witnessing 100 chefs in perfect choreographed harmony as they individually produced 100 sets of noodles from simple balls of dough, at that same event.

China is also where I had myfirst taste of the Gobi Desert and the oceanic swaying motion of a camel as I rode through the sand dunes of Gansu province to watch a spectacular sunrise.

Or being regarded as a human curiosity while evaluating the tourism potential of a group of northern islands, and even making a meal of local scorpions because of their healthenhancing properties. In thefirst instance, many locals had not seen westerners before and I must have looked quite alien with white hairy, arms and legs. Certainly many of the local residents that saw me and my collegaues, came over to touch and pull the hair on our arms amid much laughter and gaiety.

We attracted a crowd, especially-but not only-of school-age children who followed us around everywhere even into the various shops along the main street, and gaped as we ate street food as we came across it. A multitude of photographs were taken with many different persons.

The scorpion event was particularly fun, as when it was known throughout the rather large local restaurant that a foreigner was about to consume these delicacies, it seemed all the diners in the place - as well as the serving staff and the chefs - crowded into our private dining room to watch and take pictures. All I can say is that ‘a good time was had by all'. Events such as this have been of particular interest and most enjoyable in their own right, but the memories so created have also been significantly enhanced because of the people that we met and interacted with along the way.

From highly sophisticated individuals to rural farmers, they all had one particular feature in common. Everyone that we met was pleased to see us and they gave every consideration and politeness as they interacted with us. From the elders to the young children, many would unashamedly approach and utter the only English words they probably knew at the time: ‘Hello' and ‘I amfine, thank you'. All were curious and interested in us and what we were doing in their part of China. That was some time ago and now of course, English is much more widely spoken and understood, as are a number of other languages.

The riotous laughter and fun in trying to order a meal at that time,when none of us could speak Chinese and none of them, (translators excepted) could converse in English, has been especially enjoyable.Lots offinger pointing at pictures and at the meals ordered by other diners until eventually we were successful-more or less-in placing an order with the local restaurant. An exercise in international charades indeed!

On a very much more sombre note, I must mention the devastation and grief caused by the Great Sichuan Earthquake on May 12, 2008. Not to belabour that point, but to highlight the tenacity and resilience of the local rural populations directly affected. To visit that site and see the memorial museum erected in memory of those who perished, will tear your heart apart. But with great speed and efficiency, the affected towns and roads were re-built and the rural residents resumed their lives. Today they are as cheerful and welcoming as any in the land.

So, after almost two decades visiting China - multiple times each year-I can truly say that while I am familiar with many landmarks,minority groups and local residents, I still cannot say that I know the country and its people-I continue to learn every single day. To those visitors and potential visitors who think that they can visit Beijing,Shanghai and see the Pandas in Sichuan province means that they have ‘done' China, I can only feel saddened because of what they miss.With the simple but most rewarding pleasures of interacting with the local population through their food and culture both within the large urban centres and the rural expanses.

Each can bring great enjoyment to those delivering the experience as well as to those consuming them. With respect to the food, it is not just the dishes themselves-although that helps-but also to the spirit of adventure and conviviality when enjoyed in the company of newfound friends and colleagues. On many occasions, I have experienced the chefs themselves joining in the merriment as they eagerly explain the origins of this dish or the evolution of that one.

From the delicate hairy crabs of Hangzhou's West lake, to the sea cucumbers of Dalian and the renowned Sichuan hotpot, there is a taste sensation for every palate. Such meals are made all the more enjoyable by the company around the table and the chef's details as to the origin and culture behind one or more of his/her creations. Once more, the willingness of the Chinese people to talk-with passion-about their culture and the food that evolved from it, heightens the very act of consumption.

Charming Leshan

I have seen much and experienced more, but my education with the people of China still continues to this day. Currently I am based within Leshan Normal University (LSNU) in the lovely city of Leshan in Sichuan province, where I am fortunate to be able to develop a much deeper understanding of these people and their culture, from the students and the faculty of the university as well as the local population.

Previously I had visited Chengdu city in Sichuan province many times, but I was completely oblivious to what existed just two hours away by car, in Leshan and its surrounds. From the UNESCO-listed world heritage site of the Giant Buddha to the three rivers that combine at the foot of that statue, to the peaks of Mount Emei and beyond.

The sites themselves are stunningly beautiful and steeped in history,but it is the people-to me-that make the city such an attractive place to live and work. The minority groups, the people of the mountains,the fishermen and theflat-landers-they all have stories to tell and are both proud of their heritage and eager and willing to talk about it to anyone who will give them the time and opportunity to do so. The openness with which they do this is quite something to experience.

Once I saw Leshan I immediately knew I wanted to dive deeper into the history and culture of the city and its surrounds. To see the site of the deepest salt-water well of the 1800s to the soy sauce that is still made by hand and in the traditional way and everything in between.There is an energy here that is palpable and which emerges in the actions and attitudes of all the residents here.

Clean air, fresh food and always a chat or discussion with some of the locals, the latter usually with the aid of an electronic translator, make each day an adventure and a learning experience. My wife and I work locally, buy our produce locally, eat locally and interact with a wide range of local personalities each and every day. And there is always something to discover.

Clearly, it remains the people and the way they are willing to communicate and engage with me through their culture that has made the deepest impression on me and which I believe is the strongest and most significant change over the last 40 years that I have personally witnessed. And that trend is continuing.

Currently, and from amongst the members of the student body at LSNU for example, Ifind that the young adults with whom I am engaged, are intensely driven to learn, not in a rote fashion just so they can get their degrees, but to really know and understand. They push me and test me and always want more. Not in any aggressive mannerbut simply to understand better. That, in and of itself is good for me I might also add.

It is also fascinating to see how the degree courses offered at LSNU tend to be a blend of hard and soft skills, with dance, music, song and the atre just as important as for example, financial management. Such an approach is, I must say, refreshing and in my view, will lead to a very balanced cohort of graduates entering the workforce at some future date.

What Ifind particularly interesting though is that students-and faculty-are willing and eager to try everything. Failure is not something that seems to feature largely in their approach to things. They sing,they dance, they put on performances, they study and they have a great time doing it. Then they do it again only better.

Similarly, the faculty. When my wife and Ifirst arrived, we were met with such warmth, generosity and kindness that we were mildly taken aback, however we were very appreciative of it and I hope reciprocated in kind. Faculty here are also very broadly talented, not so much singularly focused as in other places so communication and discussion can and does occur on many different levels and across many different subjects - something else that I have noticed over the years. Knowledge of, and interest in world affairs is growing all the time.

In terms of the broad range of abilities, just recently, each school within the university prepared to deliver individual school performances at a gala event. We had singing, we had dancing, we had music and we were regaled with poetry and monologues on the importance and significance of tea in Chinese culture. To see academics, administrators and students deliver such performances was to me simply stunning.In my day, the sciences and the arts were kept separate with ‘never the‘twain to meet'. This was indeed refreshing!

But to return to my earlier point, what makes this possible is the emergence and development of a psyche in China that shows that the people themselves are a force to be reckoned with. Hard working, confident and continually open to new ideas, thoughts and concepts is typical of the mainlander today, and follows on from the ancestry of millennia.

Remember what the ancient Chinese brought to the world in times past. From paper to the concept of nothing (or zero) in accounting to even the humble wheelbarrow, and who opened up maritime and land-based trading routes now popularised as the Silk Roads. That same conceptual and practical spirit of innovation I am pleased to say,can be seen in the population of China today. All you have to do is open your eyes to it and understand that we each have something to offer. At the same time, be like the Chinese themselves and have fun -enjoy the experiences. I sure do and I am all the better for it.

The Chinese today, like many other cultures around the world, are willing to serve with hospitality and care, but do not confuse serving with servitude-the latter will not even entertain a thought. All are equal and that is a most significant change in mind-set and a major change during the last four decades.