范铁明　毛明明

摘要： 文章对内蒙古莫旗达斡尔民族博物馆馆藏的25件荷包进行了采样研究，选取8个疑似植物染色荷包的16种紫红色系色彩进行复原实验。通过定位和对比研究，得到了色彩的L*、a*、b*、c*值范围。确认了可行的染色材料为苏木和红花，染色工艺为苏木直接染、前媒染和红花同后媒染。研究结果表明：通过调整染液质量分数、媒染剂和酸碱度，可以派生出多种紫红色调。使用苏木直接染可复原1种色彩，前媒染可复原8种色彩；使用红花染材可复原7种色彩，复原色差均小于4，达到了复原研究的目的。

关键词： 荷包；植物染色；红花；苏木；达斡尔族；紫红色

中图分类号： TS193.62

文献标志码： A

文章编号： 10017003（2018）09004011

引用页码：091107

Analysis of purple red color on the traditional Daur embroidered pouch

FAN Tieming，MAO Mingming

（College of And Art & Design， Qiqihar University， Qiqihaer 161006， China）

Abstract： Twenty five pieces of embroidered pouches collected from Molidawa Daur National Museum in Inner Mongolia were analyzed. Among them， eight embroidered pouches which might be dyed with vegetable dyes were chosen. Sixteen purplish red colors were selected for the recovery experiment. The range of L*， a*， b* and c* value of colors were obtained through positioning and comparative study. The feasible dyes were confirmed to be sappanwood and safflower. The dyeing process was as follows： direct dyeing with sappanwood， premordant dyeing， and postmordant dyeing. The results showed that a variety of purplered colors were obtained by adjusting the dye concentration，the mordant types and the pH value. One color could be recovered by direct dyeing with sappanwood， while eight colors could be recovered by premordant dyeing. Seven colors could be recovered by safflower dyeing. The color difference to the collected colors was less than four which reached the purpose of recovery research.

Key words： embroidered pouch； plant dyeing； sappanwood； safflower； Daur ethnic； purple red

達斡尔族是中国北方农牧文化较为发达的少数民族之一，集中分布在黑龙江省、内蒙古自治区地区。其生产方式以农牧为主，渔猎为辅，手工业、商业、林业、采集业和交通运输业等多种经济活动并存[1]。其地域环境和生存条件决定着该民族的社会行为和文化结构。作为民族历史和文化的载体，服饰艺术在民族文化结构中具有重要的地位，是表达民族思想感情最具有艺术感染力的形象语言[2]。达斡尔族荷包作为传统民族服饰的主要配饰，代表达斡尔族传统手工艺的发展水平，具有独特的地域特色和艺术价值，尤其是荷包色彩，更能体现该民族特有的艺术水准和风格特征[3]。

随着生活方式的改变，现代人对荷包的印象日趋淡薄，传统荷包已经很少出现在人们的服饰搭配中，目前馆藏的达斡尔传统荷包，多数出土于清代晚期，数量不多。……