文/五花肉

武夷奇茗 岩骨花香Rock Charm and Floral Fragrance of Wuyi Rock Tea

文/五花肉

“溪边奇茗冠天下，武夷仙人自古栽”，作为乌龙茶中的极品，武夷岩茶兼具绿茶清香和红茶醇美，蜚声中外。

The tea planted along the stream is world-renowned, and Wuyi mystical saints have planted it since

ancient time.As the top of oolong tea, Wuyi Rock Tea, with characteristics of green tea’s fresh aroma and black tea’s mellow taste, is well-known at home and abroad.

名山绝壁孕育岩骨花香 Born in Cliff of Famous Mountain

《茶经》云：“上者生烂石、中者生砾壤、下者生黄土”。武夷山的悬崖绝壁，造就了武夷岩茶别具一格的“岩骨花香”之韵。

As written inThe Classic of Tea, tea grows best in eroded, rocky ground, while loose and gravely soil is the second best and yellow earth is the least ideal.The steep precipices and cliffs of Mount Wuyi create the most suitable growth conditions for tea, contributing to Wuyi Rock Tea's unique fl avor of rock essence and fl oral fragrance.

“岩韵”是武夷岩茶独有的特征，也是衡量品质优次的重要标准。武夷山岩石主要由页岩、砾岩、石英班岩、红沙岩等岩石构成，岩石表层以红壤、黄壤为主，有机质含量高，pH值为4～6。茶农利用石隙、石缝，沿边砌筑石岸种茶，形成了“岩岩有茶，非岩不茶”的特色景观。As the unique feature of Wuyi rock tea, rock essence is a significant criterion to evaluate its quality. The rocks of Mount Wuyi mainly consist of shale, conglomerate, quartz porphyry and red sand stone. The mantle of rock is principally comprised of red earth and yellow earth, which possess a high content of organic matter with the pH from 4 to 6. The tea growers take the advantage of rock crevices and plant tea trees in the masonry rock bank, which forms a special landscape: any rock is planted with tea and any tea cannot be without rock.

传统工艺入选中国非遗Traditional Craft Selected into the Chinese Intangible Cultural Heritage List

武夷岩茶属半发酵茶，制作工艺介于绿茶与红茶之间，堪称所有茶类中工序最多、工艺最复杂的一种。其中，最关键的烘焙工艺，有“武夷焙法，实甲天下”的美誉。

Wuyi Rock Tea belongs to semi-fermented tea. Its processing technique sets between green tea and red tea. Among all tea varieties, it has the most procedures and the most complex technique, among which roasting is considered as the best technique around the world.

传统手工武夷岩茶通常采用炭焙、暗焙，在炭火上覆上炭灰，火在灰中，持续平稳地给予茶叶热度。高档岩茶一般比较幼嫩、耐火力差，只有“低温、短时、薄摊”，才能保证茶叶的自然花香和天然品质。2006年，武夷岩茶（大红袍）传统制作工艺入选中国非物质文化遗产“传统手工技艺”名录。

Traditional handmade Wuyi Rock Tea generally adopts the way of charcoal roasting and dark roasting: cover the charcoal fire with coal ash so as to ensure the constant heat. Commonly, highend rock tea appears to be tender with poor flame resistance. Only when being satisfied with low temperate, short time and thin spread, can it ensure its floral fragrance and natural quality. In 2006, its traditional tea processing technique was selected into the traditional handicraft category of Chinese intangible cultural heritage list.

悬壶高冲细品岩茶真味Holding up Teapot and Careful Pouring Achieve Natural Flavor

按照国家标准GB/T 23776-2009《茶叶感官审评方法》，乌龙茶以1:22的茶水比冲泡为宜，无论用壶还是盖碗，水要高冲，即常言的“悬壶高冲”，以促茶叶松动出味。浸泡时间的长短，因茶而异，精茶，一般10～20秒左右，粗茶略长，二三泡后可视个人口味轻重依次延长浸泡时间。武夷岩茶“重在吃水”，因此要细心感悟其滋味，端起品杯之时，做到先观其色，后闻其香，再品其味，才能领悟武夷岩茶的岩韵。

According to the national standardGB/T 23776-2009 Methodology of Sensory Evaluation of Tea, oolong is appropriate to be brewing with the tea and water proportion of 1:22. No matter using teapot or cover bowl, it requires to pour out hot water from a higher position. In this way, tea leaves can be spread out

and its pure fl avor can be better tasted. The steeping time is different: fi ne tea takes 10 to 20 seconds and crude tea takes more. After fi nishing two or three pots,

you can prolong the steeping time according to the personal preference. The key of savoring Wuyi Rock Tea is about drinking tea soup. In order to enjoy the rock charm, you’d better watch its color fi rst and then smell it and fi nally taste it.

结 语Conclusion

“三十六峰，峰峰有寺，九十九岩，岩岩皆茶”。武夷山以她秀绝的山水和深厚的底蕴，孕育出武夷岩茶的质朴、醇美和岩韵，在历代茶人的弘扬推崇下，不断绽放出历久弥新的中华茶道之美。

Each of its 36 mountains has a temple, each of 99 rocks is planted with tea. Mount Wuyi breeds the Wuyi Rock Tea with the characteristics of plainness, mellowness and rock charm. Through the generations of tea lovers' efforts in maintaining and carrying forward, Wuyi Rock Tea continuously unfolds the beauty of Chinese teaism..

（支持单位：上海市质量和标准化研究院）