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Haute Couture More Than Luxury

2017-09-03TextphotosbyCiciTranslationbySonia

空中之家 2017年9期
关键词:设计

Text & photos by Cici Translation by Sonia

Haute Couture More Than Luxury

Text & photos by Cici Translation by Sonia

While most major fashion weeks have turned into events where it is deemed trendy to be seen by the mainstream, Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week remains exclusive, where only signifi cant celebrities and icons get invited.

高定的世界不止奢华

当今各大时装周无不沦为街拍打卡点,凑热闹炫关系的成分也许多于时装周的本质。只有分量极重的明星名人获邀的法国巴黎高定时装周,依然保持着一如既往的傲娇高冷。

2017Annya Ma Singapore Haute Couture Show2017Annya Ma高定系列新加坡秀场 刺绣

Unlike the fashion weeks of ready-made garments, Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week is of aristocratic heritage. lt has a strict standard on brands: there are merely two to three thousand people worldwide that can afford haute couture and they are generally of royal families, aristocratic, rich, famous, or A-list celebrities. As unaffected by the mass consumer market, Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week has become the creativity wonderland for fashion designers - there are wildest, unimaginable, and puzzling designs; there are also exquisite, outstanding, and extravagant ones; and there are always those transforming fashion week to action art and the quirky ones! Nothing is impossible here, may it be peculiarly hippie, immortally beautiful, behaviourally recalcitrant, or postmodern frigid.

To the general trend followers, the experimental action art is for admiration only and no ordinary people can harness it. We may not be able to afford the art-like apparel, but can still get a glimpse of the trend from the designs of each brand, preparing ourselves for the seasonal shopping spree.

不同于其他成衣时装周,巴黎高定时装周属于贵族血统。其对品牌要求极其严格,而全球能够消费得起高定的人也只有两三千人,身份一般是王室、贵族、名媛、贵妇,最低也是一线明星。因为不被大众消费市场影响,巴黎高定时装周俨然成为设计师们的创意乐园,有异想天开,匪夷所思,不明所以的设计,也有精美绝伦,极尽奢华的,当然也少不了把时装秀当成行为艺术,奇形怪状的设计!嬉皮趣怪,美如天仙,行为乖张,后现代性冷淡等等,在这里没有什么不可以。

当然,作为普通的时尚精,那些实验性的行为艺术看看就好,别放心上,不是正常人能够hold得住。虽然买不起这些金字塔如艺术品般的服装,但从各品牌的设计中,自然get到时尚风向,为换季买买买做好功课。

Ashi Studio

Embroideries, beading, and feathers刺绣钉珠羽毛

Many brands boast fervently of their heavy beading, gems, crystals, metallic embroideries, and feathers. A gown for a queen on the coronation, an outfit for a fairy falling on earth, or apparel for a princess on a pilgrimage - in any case, extravagant and opulent. And yes, these three factors dominate the gowns and dresses on the fashion events this year!

许多大品牌恨不得亮瞎大家的眼睛,重工钉珠、宝石、水晶、金属线刺绣、羽毛,这是女王登基的服装,精灵降临人间的服装,公主朝圣的服装,反正就是奢华大气。今年的礼服或者小礼服,这三大元素称霸时尚派对!

Elie Saab

Elie Saab

Elie Saab

High grey with fringe高级灰加流苏

The colour high grey is back and it is metallic, low-profiled and elegant. Fringes are back, and one that flows with the body movement has become a focal point again. If you still have the fringed bags, shoes, or skirts from several years ago, it is time to dig them out!高级灰回归,并且是带有金属感的灰色,低调优雅。流苏又回来了,随着身体的律动飘逸的流苏又成为热点,如果你还保留着几年前的流苏包包,鞋子,小裙子,可以翻出来了!……

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