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古城灵芽 陈香自醉

2017-04-27五花肉

质量与标准化 2017年12期
关键词:芽尖陈化化生

文/五花肉

普洱茶因盛产于滇西南的历史古城“普洱府”而得名。“普洱古城锦秀乡,名茶载誉五洲扬。春尖品饮一杯少,三碗搜肠味自芳。”寥寥数笔,便把普洱茶的“名”与茶人的“痴”描绘得淋漓尽致。

Pu'er tea is named after Pu'er city in southwest China's Yunnan Province. Pu'er city is famous for the prestigious Pu'er tea. A cup of Pu'er tea is not enough, and your body will be filled with tea's aroma after having three bowls of tea. From such a simple description, the reputation of Pu’er tea and the indulgence of tea man are perfectly presented.

灵芽两品

Pu'er Tea Falls into Two Distinct Categories

普洱茶的采摘讲究“一芽两叶”,从包裹鳞片中初探芽尖的新芽品质最优;芽尖周围伸出两片新叶时,茶叶的成熟度和内含物均达到理想状态,进入标准采摘周期;等长到三叶、四叶,茶叶品质也随之降低。

The pluck of Pu'er tea follows the "one bud and two leaves". The new bud has started to burgeon is the best; when two new leaves grow around the bud,tea's maturity level and inclusion achieve an ideal condition, which shows it can step into the standard pluck period. With more leaves grows, tea's quality goes down.

进入加工环节的普洱茶,根据工艺不同分为生茶和熟茶两种类型,可以“一茶两品”。从生茶到熟茶,必须经过一道工序——渥堆,将晒青毛茶堆高到700 mm左右,洒水并覆盖麻布,通过湿热作用人工加速茶叶发酵,促进多酚类化合物非酶性自动氧化。渥堆程度不同,茶叶会呈现绿黄、栗红和栗黑等不同色泽,这也成为判断普洱茶品质的重要标准之一。

When it comes to processing, Pu'er tea can be divided into raw tea and fermented tea according to diあerent processing standards. Piling is needed to make raw tea into fermented tea. In this process, sundried raw tea is piled up to about 700 mm and covered with linen after being sprayed. The fermentation of tea leaves are accelerated in an artificially humid and warm environment, which promotes polyphenols to oxidize in a non-enzymatic way. Based on degree of piling,the tea leaves will turn into different colors such as green-yellow, chestnut red, chestnut black. This is one of the important standards to evaluate Pu'er tea quality.

陈化生香

Achieve the Crusted Aroma after Fermentation

普洱茶香型独特,以经久耐泡著名。这一点主要源自其“陈化生香”的独特品质。The fl avor of Pu'er tea is distinct, and it is famous for its long-lasting infusion. This is mainly because of the unique characteristic: fermentation generates aroma.

不论生茶还是熟茶,普洱茶都不宜当季饮用,需要在特定的仓储环境下进行陈化,陈化室要求避光、通风、无异味,保持温度25 ℃、湿度75%。陈化越久,普洱茶色香味的品质提升也就越显著。因此,普洱茶也被誉为“能喝的古董”,是唯一可以收藏的茶品,通常年代越久,口感越好,价格也越高。

Pu'er tea is not the seasonal drink no matter it is raw tea or fermented tea. It need fermentation in specif i c storage condition, where must be away from light,ventilate, no smell, at 25 ℃ of temperature and 75%of humidity. The color and aroma of Pu'er tea will significantly upgrade as the time of fermentation goes by. Pu’er tea is honored as the drinkable antique because it is the only tea variety that has collectible value. Usually, the more it ages, the tastier and more valuable it becomes.

357 g的渊源

Story of 357 g

陈化结束,普洱茶就可以进入销售环节,通常为饼状,每饼的重量约357 g。这一传统最早可追溯至茶马古道的传说。

When fermentation completes, Pu'er tea enters the market sales phase. Usually, the shape is like a cake and the weight of one tea cake is 357 g. This tradition can date back to the legend of the Ancient Tea Horse Roads.

负责运输的马帮把普洱茶“蒸而团之,紧压成型”,用马匹驼运往返于茶马古道。当时普洱茶的交易单位主要为“筒”和“件”:一筒为七饼,约2.5 kg,普洱茶早期又因此得名“七子饼”;一件为12筒,约30 kg,一匹马正好可负重2件。357 g的茶饼标准也一直沿用至今。

Pu'er tea is steamed and piled into a block mass by the caravan who is responsible for transportation between the Ancient Tea Horse Roads. At that time, the trading unit of Pu'er tea could be divided into package and tube: a tube was equal to seven cakes (a unit),about 2.5 kg. Thus, Pu'er tea was also known as"Seven-piece Cake"; a package was equal to 12 tubes,about 30 kg. A horse was able to be burden with two packages. The standard of 357 g tea cake is still used today.

结 语

Conclusion

陈化生香的品质赋予普洱茶高锐持久、滋味浓醇的独特口感。倾情普洱茶的人,品味的不仅是茶香,更是时间的醍醐、光阴的故事,历经雕凿,方得佳品。

Fermentation achieves the crusted aroma, which brings Pu'er tea long-lasting and mellow taste. For those who indulge in Pu'er tea, they not only taste the fl avor, but time and indulgence. Like Pu'er tea, things get better with age.

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