巴塞尔，奢华是什么颜色？

今年的巴塞尔钟表珠宝博览会，比往年多了一丝生动，一抹色彩。或许标志着古老高端的钟表界，也在微妙而暧昧地转向新人群。

It is more vivid and more colourful in Baselworld this year. Maybe it also implies that the traditional high-end watch industry is heading in a new direction.

Metallic Blue

Blue is normally regarded as a cool tone. However, in the latest watch designs, blue is blended with the solidity and hard quality of other metals and materials and shows more sense of profoundness and stableness. Different designers choose different shades of blue. Blancpain, for example adapts the classic deep sea blue with popular minimalist dial design, rendering a touch of cool elegancy and mystery. Chopard's new sapphire blue watch uses all blue on its dial, case and strap. The piercing coldness emits from all parts of the watch. The most special one would be the brand new Big Bang Unico designed by Hublot, which is made of transparent sapphire crystal. The wild and sheer design gives a total dynamism. There are also a lot of blue designs in the details. Perhaps this will be more attractive to more watch fans. The Persian blue in new Rolex Cellini Moonphase, the colour of which was then widely used in tempera paintings, is sparkling and shining in Baselworld. The light blue tiny pointers used in Glashütter Originals' new Senator collection renders more liveliness. OMEGA sets out to create a combination GMT and divers' watch fashioned from a single block of blue ceramic. "Big Blue" is driven by the OMEGA Master Chronometer calibre 8906, the water resistance can be down to 600 metres.

Sporty Green

The various changes in functions are also praised by many watch fans, especially some new technologies adapted to feed the needs of sports lovers. In Baselworld, many designers are following this trend. Tag Heuer, who has been closely related to the Olympics since 1920, designed the famous timepiece Autavia. It was the first chronograph that was equipped with a rotating bezel and was once the very first choice of athletes. Now it is matched with a new simple but sporty leather strap to easily match more daily outfits. The Aquaracer collection released its new camouflage versions. This new Aquaracer camouflage has a 300 metre water resistance, polished with black PVD titanium grade 2 sand blasted case to intensify its transparency to protect it from the elements. This timepiece has a titanium grade 2 black PVD sand blasted 60 minute scale, which is the best choice when being under severe environments. The timepiece designed by Certina to warm up in Baselworld is a 1/10 Chronograph with a NATO strap. The NATO strap has been majored in the industry for a long time, but Certina this time uses red and black to give a more classy feel. Cosmic green is the latest colour to be added to the H. Moser & Cie. collection. This audacious green, reminiscent of the jewel tones of the Northern Lights, continues in the spirit of the famed Funky Blue dial which has become the brand's signature. This 44 mm diameter's timepiece has a dial with no logo and features but only 4 main indices, which has proven the authenticity and simplicity of the brand.

金属蓝

蓝色向来被看作“冷色调”，不过，在钟表设计中，蓝色融合了各种金属和其他材质的硬度和质感，会呈现出深邃而沉稳的观感。而不同品牌在蓝色的选择中也不尽相同，Blancpain运用的经典深海蓝表盘迎合时下极简的盘面设计，大气高冷又有神秘之态。Chopard的宝石蓝主题的设计，同时运用在表面和表带上，凛冽之势淋漓尽致。最特别的还有宇舶全新Big Bang Unico的透明宝石蓝设计，采用宝石蓝晶体打造，通透的设计不乏蓝色呈现的动感。除了一些大面积的蓝，细节方面的蓝色点缀或许会更受表迷的青睐——劳力士的切里尼月相大有古典油画中“波斯蓝”之亮丽和清澈；格拉苏蒂的荧光蓝刻度和指针让Senator系列更具年轻态活力。欧米茄更再次采用整块蓝色陶瓷打造全新腕表，创造出一款集GMT与潜水功能于一体的 “碧海之蓝”腕表，防水深度600米。

运动绿

功能上的变化多样也是很多表迷的追求，特别是一些结合运动需求的设计。在本届展会上，很多品牌的新品也将设计指向这种趋势。从1920年起就与奥林匹克运动会结缘的Tag Heuer，它的Autavia系列是首款配备旋转表圈的计时码表，曾一度是赛车手的挚爱。配以运动而简约的皮质表带，也可以融入各种日常的穿搭。而Aquaracer竞潜系列腕表展现了迷彩“敢死队”风格。全新竞潜系列Camouflage越野腕表防水深度达300米，表壳覆有黑色PVD涂层，采用喷砂2级钛金属打造，强化其隐形效果，避免吸引敌人视线。表圈带有分钟刻度(前15分钟标示每一分钟的刻度)，以耐刮的黑色雾面陶瓷打造，是身处恶劣环境下的不二之选。雪铁纳为大家准备的2017 Basel暖场款是搭配NATO表带的雪铁纳1/10秒计时码表。NATO表带已经风靡市场很久，雪铁纳在配色上选用了红黑款，相当经典。亨利慕时冒险者小秒针XL PURITY腕表最新色系——宇宙绿，标新立异的绿色令人不禁想起北极光宝石般的绚烂丽色，继续传承了“电光蓝”表盘的精髓。直径43毫米的表盘没有品牌标识，只有4个主要时标，极具特色，倡导返璞归真。

BASELWORLD,THE COLOUR OF LUXURY

Text &Translation by Bian Jiajin Photos by CFP&Baselworld