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Cavalry’s Last Stand

2016-01-10许敬刘珏

汉语世界(The World of Chinese) 2016年6期

许敬 刘珏

The Hongshan Army Horse Ranch in Chifeng, Inner Mongolia, is the only army horse-breeding farm in the nation thats still in active service. A nine-hour drive north of Beijing, it has supplied the army with tens of thousands stout Mongolian breeds for over five decades. Forged by a frigid environment that can reach 40 degrees below zero, these horses are known for their endurance and stamina, once making up the core of the PLA. The 1985 military reform rendered the cavalry obsolete with only two battalions left in Inner Mongolia and few companies in Xinjiang and Gansu, mainly mobilized for disaster relief.

Located on the Ulan Butong Grassland in Heshigten Global Geopark, the Hongshan Ranch is open to tourists. The grassland was once an imperial hunting ground for Manchu rulers; today it attracts tourists and photographers from across the country with its natural beauty and diverse terrain. On the steppes, the snowy season typically lasts from late November to February. The freezing white winter discourages most tourists, but for photographers, its just what they ordered: a silver world of wonder.

In the nearby village, daily activities used to be limited to herding horses and other livestock, but the village has become a haven for photographers too. They return each night to country homestays after a long day of shooting, only to get up before dawn to catch the first light of daybreak on the snow-covered steppe.

They wait on high ground, setting up tripods in the chill and watching for the glow on the horizon. The dark sky soon changes to a palette of purple, blue, red, and yellow, until the sun finally hoves into view. On their way back to the village for a hearty breakfast, the herdsmen begin to drive out their horses and sheep. With silvery birch trees, frozen lakes, and an endless blue sky, there is always more to be captured in this wintry land.