王渊

Bufu is the very important costume for officer in Qing Dynasty. Qing government set up a series of regulations specifying the usage of Bufu， which would punish those who violate the regulations. During Qing dynasty， the Bufu has always been dressed in wrong ways. There were many reasons for the phenomenon. In addition to presumed usage of some officers， emperors conferred officers with the Costumes and Buzi of higher rank， which fostered the lawviolation. In late of Qing dynasty， not only patterns of Buzi were arrogated to dress， but also the regulations of squareshape of buzi were broken through. The blank Buzi even occurs in which the core subject pattern can been alternated.All phenomenon demonstrated the relax of Costume regulation in Qing Dynasty.

清代品官的服饰种类较多，按照《清会典》的规定，品官的服饰有严格的定制，其主要服饰有朝冠、吉服冠、蟒袍、朝袍、补服及各类服饰品等。补服是清代重要的官服，是常朝燕迎的常用之服。所谓补服，是一种前后带有补子的服装，补子也叫“胸背”，以“禽”和“兽”区分文武职司，以不同的禽、兽将文武官职各分为九品。补服是清代男子的特殊服装，只有一定身份一定级别的人才能够穿着补服。补服在清代所担任的不仅仅是官服的职能，补服还是清代非常重要的礼服。按照清代的规定，凡朝会祭祀，都要服朝衣补服，凡筵燕（宴）、迎銮及一应嘉礼，俱服蟒袍补服。

1.清代补服穿着关于违例的种种规定

补服的穿着有着严格的规定，不按照规定使用将会受到惩处。清代设立了一系列关于补服穿用的细则，对如有违反也设定了相应的处罚条例。康熙五十一年：文官朝服，武官披执禁止滥用。在京官遇朝贺、祭祀、到任、封印、开印照常用常服，各省官员拜牌到任、封印、开印、祭丁入场亦照常服披执外，其文武官谒见迎送上司，只用补服。如违禁滥用者，事觉照违禁例从重议罪。雍正五年议准，凡属员谒见上司遇公服之日只用补服，不许擅用朝衣，违者皆照错误仪注例议处。……就越级穿用补服的现象，雍正时期多次下旨强调各官员要按照自己的品级穿用，但由于加级之故，官员擅自加级服用也常常造成补服僭越品级的现象。雍正二年就加级造成的补服僭越现象规定“五六品官不得过四品，三四品官不得过二品，二品官不得过一品”；