Ｋａｎｇ　Ａｉｌｉ

The clear, tranquil, turquoise-colored Chixiang Tso Lake lies in a picturesque land. About noon, the sunlight sparkles on the lake. One of the vehicles coming to a stop inside the government compound of Barling Town, we fi nally feel comforted by observing the serene and blue-colored lake. After half a day of traveling, at last we can relax.

Although this is my first trip to Barling Town, it does not seem unfamiliar with me. Resembling the scattered townships of Changtang Nature Reserve, the view of blue lakes is always on tap in front of the compounds of local township governments, together with the broad but flat river basin. As a typical saltwater lake, Chixiang Tso is situated at 4,500 meters above sea level. On its north flank, the terrain gradually rises up another 1,000-2,000 meters and then turns into mountains about 5,200 meters above sea level. Steep precipices and deep mountain valleys slice at random into the mountainsides. Going further eastward, these mountains gradually descend until they reach the east of the lake basin. Many brown bears inhabit these mountains. However, the south part of the Chixiang Tso Lake has many small hills that extend to grassland, which stretches up to 20 kilometers to the Tsakya Tsangpo River. This is the breeding ground for Tibetan antelopes.

Tibetan Antelopes on the Tsakya Tsangpo River

In order to count the Tibetan antelopes inhabiting the administrative zone of Barling Town, we came here after hearing that this was a major area for Tibetan antelopes to live and breed. The phrase “to live and breed” refers to a specific flock of Tibetan antelopes that have always lived in this area throughout the year rather than trekking for a long journey (over 200 kilometers) during the summer. The fact is that, for the most part, the Tibetan antelopes in Barling remain in the mountain surroundings and river basin throughout the year. When the mating and breeding season comes, they gather at their favorite place to fulfill their duties. At present, academic study usually pays more attention to the specific group of breeding Tibetan antelopes who are used to shifting from one place to another when breeding season comes. But, regarding those breeding antelopes that do not migrate to breed, there is no parallel study and it seems nobody really knows how many antelopes are included.

At about 8 oclock every morning, just after we have had the traditional breakfast which it is prepared by Gongkar, our driver, we set off toward the north of Tsakya Tsangpo River. This is the winter residence of Tibetan antelopes. Skirting around to the other side of Chixiang Tso Lake, we climb the mountain slope. In front of us, a plain river basin is spotted with a small number of wild antelopes and asses. While driving in Changtang one often gets sleepy but the most effective way to recover from road fatigue is to enjoy the sight of the wildlife along the road.

In only three days, we have traveled over about 750 sq. meters of grassland at the basin of Chixiang Tso. In total, we have observed 2391 antelopes. However, what surprised us is that the antelopes at this area, even the wild asses, are so frightened by vehicles. Whenever we see a flock, they immediately run away. “What is causing this?” “We have not seen such timid antelopes for quite a long period!” We, as researchers, are puzzled and focus our attention on Tsering, the policeman for the natural reserve and local wildlife protector.

“Some outsiders sometimes came from the direction of Amdo and hunted at night. It is difficult for wildlife guards to patrol at night because we dont have suitable vehicles. Though sometimes we see them in the distance, we have to ride on a motorbike to the town government compound to get a warrant. Within two years, several illegal hunting cases have been dealt with. Most of the hunters came from the direction of Amdo.”

The area of Tsakya Tsangpo River is actually a mysterious place since the local Tibetan antelopes choose to settle down there for their mating and breeding. Therefore, when summer and winter comes, it is easy to see the large flocks of Tibetan antelopes. If the road to Amdo were properly constructed, this place could become an ideal tourist attraction to observe the wildlife, especially Tibetan antelopes. In turn,

this initiative might become a new source for the locals to generate income. Nonetheless, this place is unfortunately the victim of illegal hunting which makes the antelopes shy and easily frightened. This would definitely disadvantage the local tourist industry.

The Bears and Human Beings

Apart from studying the antelopes, we also shoulder the responsibility to assist the local forestry department investigate the conflict between bears and mankind. Barling Town is also famous for bears. According to local elders, bears are plentiful. When we raised the topic as to where the investigation should start, the leaders of the Forestry Bureau in Tsonyi immediately replied: “You should pay a visit to Barling Town where encounters with bears are frequent.”

The brown bears inhabiting Changtang Natural Reserve are often of medium size but covered with thick fur and some might have distinctive fur around their necks. The color of their coat is quite individual and varied. Usually, the adult bears tend to be from dark brown to black, but the color on their face often varies from red brown to dark brown, while from the shoulders to the chest there is a white collar, becoming wider when it reaches the chest. Their ears are black with thick fur. Often, the fur color varies on different parts of the body; the color on the face, feet, and hip, are dark brown but on the other parts, the color tends to be light brown. Seen from a distance, they can seem almost white.

Tibetan brown bears inhabit mountain areas and surroundings.

Frequent sightings have been recorded, in particular on the mountain grassland of the Qinghai-Tibetan Plateau. Rockhill (1891) found “many bears in the fringe areas of Qinghai”. In the 1930s, Shafer said he even observed 14 bears in a day. As Rockhill states, Tibetans believed that bears were dangerous creatures.

During a study in the Changtang Natural Reserve by the famous U.S. biologist, George B. Schaller, heard two interesting anecdotes. In his investigation in 1991, he recorded: “On December 17th, a male brown bear attacked a herdsmans tent and killed his dog. A woman burst out of the tent and ran away. Then, the bear entered the tent and bit a sheep to death by eating its rear foot and hip. Eventually this bear was shot just one kilometer away that same night. It was found that its front teeth and incisors were almost completely decayed and its body was emaciated. Undoubtedly, such phenomenon was due to a severe winter but its stomach still contained fresh mutton.” George B. Schaller recorded another incident in which his research team accidentally drove into a nest of bears where two baby bears were hiding. On seeing the accident, the female bear was enraged and chased after the vehicle until finally giving up and disappearing into the wilderness.

Due to advances through wildlife protective measures, including the formal announcement of a natural preservation

zone, promoting education and raising of public awareness of wildlife protection, fighting against wanton poaching of wildlife, and placing the local wildlife generally under the provision of benevolent protection. As a result, the number of protected species has increased in some areas. However, with the dissolution of old problems, new issues emerge: the conflict between humans and wildlife, which it is just what the local people are currently facing.

This conflict is virtually manifestation of relations between wildlife and mankind that is a common theme in history. At the dawn of the 1990s, the aggressor in the conflict was human, usually as poachers. Nonetheless, the present-day conflict, more or less, relates to the interaction due to the overlapping habitat of wildlife and humans that causes the conflict. Apart from the interference with and occupation of wildlife habitat by humans, the property and possessions of humans themselves are sequentially suffering from negative impacts and disruptions by the wildlife.

In order to get sense of the conflict between humans and the local bears, we interviewed a total of 18 households in Barling Town. As I learned, the local bears have caused massive property loss to local residents as the bears often invade houses to kill domestic animals, like sheep and goats, when the owners are absent. In the old days, such vicious bears would be sentenced to death by rifle fire. However, the recent application of animal protection policy, accompanied by rules forbidding use of civil rifles issued by the local government, provides more opportunity to the bears to gain access to local peoples houses, even the bears themselves seem to be aware of such advantages. Although a variety of foods are available for bears to plunder, like mice, rabbits, and even the Himalaya marmots, it is unquestionably much easier to them to grab food from inside houses and surroundings. Besides, the surroundings of houses are usually decorated with various kinds of rubbish, such as skeletons of domestic animals, smelly clothes, and plastic bags filled in with decaying food and animal hides. All such rubbish emits an irresistible odor to bears. In addition, the cooking of food, like meat, butter, and other scents,

arouses insatiable hunger in bears. Moreover, the family sheep and goats are sleeping in the neighboring pens which are very simply designed and really only provide shelter from the wind, but are often fragile and defenseless to wildlife attack.

According to the guild, having gone through whole winter hibernation, when the spring comes bears tend to be desperately hungry. Therefore they are very active. From September to March, bears are in less active. During this period, the female bears are used to taking time with their baby bears in nests. Few bears are perennially active.

During the visit, we were impressed by one household and, to some extents, they may provide a good example. This is a family dwelling in a group of bungalows situated at the bottom of a mountain. A whitewashed rampart encircles the house. When our car stops at the front entrance of the family yard, our middle-aged host comes out and greets us. Having been introduced by the former town governor, we are ushered by the host into the yard. He points out the narrow corridor between two houses in the yard, and relates to us his encounter with a bear one night.

Bears have also attacked the sheep pen outside the houses. The man emanates disappointment, shaking his head and saying: “These creatures really give you a headache and are a struggle to deal with.” At present, the family members are experimenting with new strategies to prevent bear attack. For instance, he with his family members has already rebuilt the pen to be higher, plus a change to an iron door to the pen. In addition, they also use wire around the pen. He tells us that these new strategies do make a sense, particularly in the night.

In part, we were inspired by this strategic approach to prevention by this household. At least, the locals have taken new this approach into account to alleviate the conflict with bears, beyond the previous method – rifle fire. Besides, their initiatives to reduce the conflict have been effective, in comparison with the previous approach by which people only rely on government compensation after bear attacks.

In recent years, many provinces have set up investigations regarding the conflict between wildlife and humans. As a result, stratified compensation policies have been issued. In Changtang, families are eager to obtain compensation from government after attacks by bears. From our point of view, counting on compensation is not the way to solve the problem, and of course it will add to their overall burden and can never be a permanent solution at all.

What we believe is, while considering compensation, it is valuable to proactively apply strategies and install some kind of device to enhance prevention capacity. The proactive approach to prevent conflict should be taken into account as priority in conflict solving. Only when the proactive approach is ineffective, should compensation apply. By adopting such a strategy, the situation of passively waiting for compensation would be avoided. It is therefore necessary to encourage the householders to take initiative in proactive prevention strategies. Meanwhile, to integrate the proactive approach with collective insurance at the town level will relieve the financial burden of the government and promote a positive impact on conflict solving in tandem with mobilizing the full participation of the locals. Such an approach would surely support the locals to reduce the frequency of conflict between humans and wildlife. In particular, such an approach could be applied in Barling Town.