Cold resources heating textile and apparel industry

—Interview with Sun Ruizhe， president of International Textile Manufacturers Federation and China National Textile and Apparel Council

2021年10月20日上午，隨着北京冬奥会第一支火炬点燃，冬奥会正式进入了北京时间。对于2022年冬奥会，政府提出了通过政府推动、政策拉动、规划策动、宣传鼓动等手段，最终实现带动3亿人参与冰雪运动的目标。

冰雪经济产业链较长，涉及旅游、器械、餐饮以及纺织服装等诸多领域。据估算，此次冬奥会所涉及的冰雪运动将带动其他关联产业收入达到3000亿元以上。到2025年，中国冰雪产业总规模预计将达到1万亿元，如此巨大的市场空间，也为纺织服装以及相关产业开启了无限商机。在冰雪“冷资源”开始转化为“热经济”的快车道上，纺织产业该如何顺势而为？还存在哪些不足，亟待完善？为了找到这些问题的答案，CHINA TEXTILE专程采访了国际纺织制造商联合会（以下简称国际纺联）主席、中国纺织工业联合会会长孙瑞哲。

On the morning of October 20， 2021， the Beijing 2022 Olympic Winter Games officially entered Beijing time with the lighting of the first torch of the Games. For the Beijing 2022 Olympic Winter Games， the government has proposed the goal of attracting 300 million people to participate in winter sports through government promotion， policy stimulus and planning.

Ice and snow economy has a long industrial chain， involving tourism， equipment， catering， textile and apparel and many other fields. It is estimated that the ice and snow sports involved in the Olympic Winter Games will drive the revenue of other related industries to reach more than 300 billion yuan. Chinas ice and snow industry is expected to reach 1 trillion yuan by 2025. The huge market space also opens infinite business opportunities for textile and apparel industry and related industries. How should the textile and apparel industry take advantage of the trend？ What are the deficiencies that need to be improved？ In order to find the answers to these questions， CHINA TEXTILE interviewed Sun Ruizhe， president of International Textile Manufacturers Federation （ITMF）， and the China National Textile and Apparel Council （CNTAC）.

冰雪运动带来巨大机遇

China Textile： 2022年冬奥会即将来临，国家也多次提出了“带动三亿人上冰雪”的愿景，您觉得这对纺织企业来说有哪些机遇和挑战？

孙瑞哲：2022 冬奥会的申办成功，点燃了国人对冰雪运动的消费热潮。叠加国家 “带动三亿人上冰雪”政策红利与持续的资本入局，我国冰雪运动服装装备企业迎来巨大的发展机遇。主要体现在：

第一，规模发展的巨大机遇。《冰雪运动发展规划（2016-2025年）》指出，到2020年我国冰雪产业总规模将达到6000亿元，2025年我国冰雪产业总规模将达到10000亿元。另据《中国冰雪旅游发展报告（2021）》显示，预计2020-2021年冰雪季，中国冰雪休闲旅游人次将达2.3亿人次，冰雪休闲旅游收入超过3900亿元。文化和旅游部数据中心预测，2021-2022冰雪季中国冰雪旅游将带动冰雪特色小镇、冰雪文创、冰雪运动、冰雪制造、冰雪度假地产、冰雪会展等相关产业的产值达到2.92万亿元。可见，伴随消费总量与消费人群的规模发展，冰雪产业总体将持续释放规模效应，为我国冰雪运动服装装备企业拓展消费市场，壮大消费品牌，应用消费场景，创造巨大的发展机遇与想象空间。第二，政策红利的巨大机遇。近年来，我国相继出台《“带动三亿人参与冰雪运动”实施纲要（2018-2022年）》、冰雪旅游发展行动计划（2021—2023年）、《冰雪运动发展规划（2016-2025年）》、《关于以2022年北京冬奥会为契机大力发展冰雪运动的意见》等政策文件。政策红利的密集释放，将有效促进冰雪产业蓬勃发展，产业规模明显扩大，结构不断优化，产业链日益完备。通过实施品牌战略，将推动建立一批产业规模较大的冰雪产业集聚区，发展一批具有较高知名度和影响力、市场竞争力较强的冰雪产业企业，兴建一批复合型冰雪旅游基地和冰雪运动中心。这些都将为我国冰雪运动服装装备企业的做大做强，赢得坚实的政策保障。

第二，政策红利的巨大机遇。近年来，我国相继出台《“带动三亿人参与冰雪运动”实施纲要（2018-2022年）》、冰雪旅游发展行动计划（2021—2023年）、《冰雪运动发展规划（2016-2025年）》、《关于以2022年北京冬奥会为契机大力发展冰雪运动的意见》等政策文件。政策红利的密集释放，将有效促进冰雪产业蓬勃发展，产业规模明显扩大，结构不断优化，产业链日益完备。通过实施品牌战略，将推动建立一批产业规模较大的冰雪产业集聚区，发展一批具有较高知名度和影响力、市场竞争力较强的冰雪产业企业，兴建一批复合型冰雪旅游基地和冰雪运动中心。这些都将为我国冰雪运动服装装备企业的做大做强，赢得坚实的政策保障。

第三，科技赋能的巨大机遇。一方面，人工智能、大数据、可穿戴设备等科技手段，已经成为辅助运动员在训练中提高竞技水平的“标配”。智能可穿戴设备，将有助于构建人体运动学及动力学参数测量及分析系统，用来检索、收集、筛选、分析运动员的速度、心率、呼吸、发力方式等一系列以前难以量化的数据。另一方面，伴随5G技术、人工智能、大数据、区块链、云计算等新兴数字产业与冰雪产业的结合，催生了“仿真冰雪”、“VR技术”、“智能化人机交互”等诸多冰雪运动新模式、新业态，“智慧冰雪产品”、“智慧冰雪服务”、“冰雪场馆数字化运营”等冰雪产业智能化发展新趋势，将有效突破国内目前冰雪运动只有冬季运营的限制，顺应“北冰南展西扩东进”的体育发展态势，降低冰雪运动门槛，真正实现冰雪运动的“四季常青”与“全域覆盖”。综合两方面，不管是从智能可穿戴设备的技术革新，还是从冰雪产业运营模式的技术革新，都将为我国冰雪运动服装装备企业拓宽多元消费场景，满足新生代消费需求，提高品牌附加值提供巨大的发展机遇。

挑战与机遇并存。我国冰雪运动服装装备企业目前面临的挑战，主要体现在两方面：

一方面，冰雪文化的普及度有待提升。相比于奥地利、日本等国家的冰雪运动趋势，中国的冰雪运动不仅起步较晚，而且在大众认知和体验层面，也尚且属于小众圈层用户的一项爱好。据中国旅游研究院《中国冰雪旅游消费大数据（2019）》报告显示，奥地利滑雪人口占比36%、其中人均滑雪次数5.9次，日本滑雪人口占比9%、其中人均滑雪次数2.5次，而中国滑雪人口占比仅约1%，其中人均滑雪次数仅1.08次。另外，滑雪运动依然停留在“贵族”运动的定位。Mob研究院数据显示，中国目前滑雪者主要为一二线城市的男性中高收入群体，人群年龄集中在25-34岁，月收入集中在一万元以上。可见，我国冰雪文化仍处于发展期，除少数高收入阶层外，大多数冰雪运动消费者類型为“一次体验型消费者”，尚未形成主动化、常态化、生活方式化的文化自觉。未来，冰雪运动服装装备企业要实现加速度发展，就需要更深层次、更广范围的冰雪消费文化普及。

另一方面，核心技术的掌控度有待提升。我国冰雪运动较国外刚起步，产业基础较薄弱。冰雪运动服装装备产业，同样遵循高成长性、高利润空间、高品牌集中度以及高专业壁垒的发展特性。相较于国外品牌，围绕“装备、数据和体验”的技术创新，产业对核心技术的掌控度不足，在研发投入、研发体量层面都有待提升。有报告显示，从市场份额来看，国内冰雪运动服装及器材产品市场划分为：滑雪服占市场份额的50%、滑雪手套占75%、滑雪眼镜占73%、滑雪帽占 25%。 由于缺乏技术竞争力，利润率最高的“滑雪板”、“滑雪鞋”以及“滑雪手杖”市场几乎大部分都被国外品牌占领。与此同时，具有传感功能、反馈功能、响应功能、信息识别与积累、自诊断能力、自修复能力和自适应能力的智能调温纺织材料、智能形状记忆纺织材料、智能变色纺织材料以及电子信息智能纺织材料，在冰雪运动服装装备企业中的实际推广运用也有待普及、强化。

从另一个角度来看，2022北京冬奥会的举办，也为提升国内冰雪运动服装装备的技术创新能力，奠定了有力的应对契机。如，2019年，国家体育总局冬季运动管理中心与北京服装学院共建“国家冬季运动服装装备研发中心”，目标为基于“人体 - 服装 - 环境”系统，开发适用于冬季项目训练与比赛的减阻、防护、热湿舒适高性能服装，致力于跨学科建成集冬季项目训练与比赛服装材料选型、功能设计、样衣制作、工效分析于一体的国际先进产学研平台。目前，北京服装学院承接的国家重点研发计划“科技冬奥”重点专项——“冬季运动与训练比赛高性能服装研发关键技术”项目冬奥备战服装在研发上，通过提升纤维保暖率与使用主动加热技术，有效解决了“快、护、暖、美”四个关键技术问题。值得期待的是，该研发平台的搭建，将有效解决核心技术研发的关键制约瓶颈，集成产学研资源，树立创新典型示范。

China Textile： 据您了解，目前我国从事冰雪运动服装装备的企业在行业中有哪些？随着冰上运动的推广，您觉得未来冰雪运动产品的市场将会如何？

孙瑞哲：总体来看，我国冰雪市场目前处于起步阶段，存在渗透率不足，产业链亟待完善的诸多挑战。与此同时，如前所述，我国冰雪运动服装装备企业，面临巨大的规模发展机遇、政策红利机遇以及科技赋能机遇，存在很大的增量空间，是全球范围内滑雪产业的主要市场之一。未来我国冰雪运动服装装备市场，有三个趋势值得关注。

一是多元化品牌格局逐步形成。目前国内冰雪运动服装装备生产产品线主要集中在滑雪领域，从事冰雪运动服装装备的企业大概分为三类：一是长期深耕在冰雪装备细分领域的小众品牌，如北京的奔流、冷山、杭州的体拓等；二是布局冰雪服装装备产业的大众品牌，如由单一品类向滑雪服等多种户外产品拓展的探路者、骆驼等，以合资方式入局滑雪市场的安踏、波司登、361°等；三是随着国内市场的发展，借助运动社群以及电商渠道快速成长的黑马品牌，如零夏、VECTOR、有司、Snowline等。多元化品牌格局的逐步形成，将有效满足冰雪产品与服务供给的个性化、差异化与品质化消费需求。

二是国产自主品牌异军突起。随着我国冰雪运动竞技力的全面跃升，冰雪市场规模的不断突破，以及冰雪文化的逐步普及，国产品牌在专业竞技运动领域与大众休闲消费领域都在不断崛起，头部品牌有望壮大，逐步形成技术驱动、结构更优、产业链更完整、品牌影响力更强的发展格局，市场规模增长与产业高质量发展齐头并进。

据CBNData联合天猫体育发布的《2020冬季新活力生活趋势报告》显示，南恩、VECTOR、Nobaday等国产新锐服装品牌，集体进入“十大Z时代喜爱冰雪品牌榜单”，在2020年12月滑雪装备的销量同比上涨13倍；另据天眼查数据显示，从2015年开始，经营范围含“滑雪”的企业注册数量明显增加，2019年注册数量超1000家，目前整体超过6400家。作为小众市场的滑雪装备，相关企业也超40家。

三是产业链上下游的研发协同加速凝聚。包括新型纤维材料、新型非织造材料、智能纺织材料以及生态染整材料在内的纺织新材料创新，是冰雪运动服装装备产业高质量发展的关键环节。当前功能性纤维材料开发与品质提升，生物基化学纤维的产业化，以及高性能纤维的产业化，都将为未来冰雪运动服装装备行业的高质量发展提供有力的发展契机。以“冬奥经济”为例，纺织服装产业链的上游面料企业，通过新材料、新工艺与新设计的研发协同，为下游品牌企业的产品品质创新与功能优化提供强有力的支撑。

如，上海嘉麟杰纺织品股份有限公司与北京冬奥组委官方合作伙伴安踏公司签订供货协议，做强超暖抓绒产品，满足冬奥会各种工作场景的需求；同样作为冬奥会制服面料供应商的绍兴乾雍纺织有限公司，凭借独特的尼龙印花技术和工艺，为还原设计上独特的颜色，定向开发纳米墨水，为时尚审美提供坚实的技术支撑；江苏三丰特种材料科技有限公司根据市场需求，开发肽肌泡（NuSkin）合成面料，对环境友好，适合在冲锋衣和羽绒服上应用；苏州市兴丰强纺织科技有限公司主打的零下无绒系列产品，减少制造羽绒所产生的废气废水的排放，更加节能减碳。可以预见，产业链上下游加速凝聚研发协同的效应，将有助于中国冰雪运动服装装备产业构筑更专业高效、难以被颠覆的技术壁垒，有效参与全球市场竞争。

自主品牌需要实现“三个强化”

China Textile：您觉得我国的冰雪运动品牌与世界顶尖户外专业运动品牌相比，还有哪些差距？需要着重在哪些方面进一步提升？

孙瑞哲：从滑雪运动看，奥地利、德国等国家进入滑雪装备市场早，拥有品牌效应、技术创新等优势。相比之下，我国滑雪运动装备制造企业多以贴牌代工、代理为主，缺乏知名品牌和核心技术，造成自主品牌竞争力不足。为此，需要实现“三个强化”。

一是强化科技研发，打造“技术品牌”。今年1月，习近平总书记在北京考察冬奥会、冬残奥会筹办工作来到首都体育馆调研时强调，要利用科学技术手段推动训练备战水平。在新技术革命与产业变迁中，我国冰雪运动品牌要从创新产业链最前端做起，在保证冰雪产业及相关产业价值创造力平稳增长的基础上，加大对冰雪产业核心层的持续性投入与钻深式研究，即强化上游科技与材料端的务实研发和资源整合，积极拥抱新材料、新技术、新服务、新资本，实现从技术引进到自主研发，不断创造人民触碰“冰雪奇缘”的更多可能。

比如，北服团队作为牵头单位，联合6所高校、4个企业联合攻关，解决“快、护、暖、美”四个关键技术问题，实现竞速类项目服装、防护材料及装备、耐低温保障材料和服装、技巧类项目服装四类产品创新；安踏集团在日本东京设立冬季运动专业装备设计中心日本办事处，通过调动世界顶级设计力量强化研发团队，研发具备最新科技含量的专业冰雪运动服装。

二是强化设计赋能，打造“时尚品牌”。通过深度挖掘消费升级下的冰雪产品需求，以我国冰雪文化为精神内涵，勇于向内探索，敢于向外破圈，善于将“冷资源”变成“热产业”，带动我国冰雪产业未来发展的产业特色流线，加快提升中国冰雪服装装备产品的设计造物力、潮流影响力、生活方式根植力和多元市场延展力。

比如，国外品牌之间的跨界艺术联名，面向全球潮流消费者，强调设计赋能，成为打造滑雪运动“符号品牌”的重要途径。如，Dior和滑雪装备品牌AK Skis联名，著名滑雪装备品牌Burton与全球最具知名度的街头涂鸦艺术家Keith Haring，联合推出滑雪板、插肩长袖T恤和连帽滑雪外套在内的联名胶囊系列；优衣库与单板滑雪运动员平野步梦联名推出滑雪服系列。

三是强化文化输出，打造“符号品牌”。立足国际国内双循环的发展格局，应抓住2022年北京承办冬奥会的大好发展机遇，以提升我国冰雪文化产业价值与影响为己任，多维度开展中国冰雪运动服装装备品牌的文化营销和意义传播，积极表达品牌态度和价值主张，把握产业“走出去”的良好时机，向世界讲好中国冰雪故事，打造具有全球文化标杆意义的“符号品牌”，提升中国自主品牌在全球市场的综合竞争力与时尚话语权。

比如，中國新生代滑雪品牌Nobaday，在不到六年的时间里，做到与Stüssy、BAPE等品牌在美国洛杉矶的潮流街区Fairfax比肩，成功签约Max Parrot、Team Riders、Regional Riders等百位世界优秀滑雪运动员，并将在2022年北京冬奥会亮相，助力中国、日本、挪威、芬兰等国选手取得佳绩。

世界正在发生三大变化

China Textile：您如何看待当前全球纺织的发展现状和特点？

孙瑞哲：当前，立足百年未有之大变局，全球纺织工业的科技革命和产业革命全面交融，世界发展新旧动能加速转换，由深度衰退转向经济复苏，加速的数字化转型，以及转向低碳和与自然相协调的经济增长成为正在发生的三大变化。一方面，欧美等发达国家和地区依托消费市场、高新科技研发和先进制造优势，正在大力推动制造业复兴，通过提出和实施强化高端纺织的创新战略性计划，重新谋求未来纺织工业制高点；另一方面，越南、孟加拉国、印度尼西亚、柬埔寨等新兴经济体积极承接纺织产业国际产能与订单转移，在世界纺织品服装出口中的份额迅速提升，客观上也会对中国纺织工业在重构产业发展优势，调整产业结构与区域布局，完善产业创新生态，以及推动产业绿色发展，提出更大挑战与更高要求。

总体来看，全球纺织经济的发展，呈现出三个重要特征：产业链的深度调整。全球产业发展的比较优势与要素价值正在发生改变。发达经济体制造业回流与新兴市场国家崛起交汇，国际分工格局深刻调整，行业产业链供应链面临激烈竞争与加快转移的现实压力。在大国博弈背景下，知识、技术、人才等创新要素的外循环阻力加大，注重自主创新成为提升行业在全球价值链上位势的必要选择。

数字经济的全面驱动。人工智能、区块链、大数据等通用基础技术的发展与渗透，正在深刻改变全球纺织行业的创新和发展范式。数据驱动产业的装备与工具更新、组织与模式再造，智能制造与智慧营销的发展，使得产业链上下游的协同性与耦合性得到提升，供给需求及时匹配，生产要素实现了优化配置与高效循环。新技术革命下，产业正呈现更大范围的要素整合与业态叠加，互联、泛在、延展成为重要趋势。虚拟技术驱动从“在线”到“在场”，沉浸式体验新空间和新消费场景持续创新。

绿色发展的战略选择。社会公平公正、经济协调平衡、生态自然和谐成为全球纺织经济的共同价值追求。以实现碳达峰、碳中和为目标，推动社会、经济、生态的可持续与平衡发展已成为世界各国的战略选择。以绿色设计、绿色生产、绿色营销、绿色消费、绿色金融为表征的产业生态正在形成，“绿色市场”和责任市场的价值空间正在打开。从要素配置、产品供给到市场规则、路径模式，全球纺织经济都在面临系统性的改变。行业开始进入出清和调整高能耗、高污染产能的结构调整期。面对日益刚性的环境要求，以可持续发展为重点，行业科技创新更加注重绿色低碳，提升效率、降低排放，推动产品全生命周期的绿色变革。

China Textile：目前中国纺织工业的现状如何，在全球纺织行业中发挥着怎样的作用？

孙瑞哲：经历了几十年的快速发展之后，中国纺织工业已经成为世界纺织品服装的最大生产国、出口国和消费国。作为世界最大的纺织经济体，一方面，中国纺织工业的体系优势和规模优势不断强化，形成了全球规模最大、最完备的产业体系，生产制造能力与国际贸易规模长期居于世界首位；另一方面，纺织行业发展质量和发展效率不断提升，产业结构全面优化升级，在全球价值链中的地位也稳步提升，如李宁、安踏、波司登等长青品牌，不断实现焕新再造，在科技创新、品牌建设、绿色发展等方面取得积极进展，有望成为具有全球影响力的知名国际品牌。

从中国纺织工业的发展现状来看，尽管有全球新冠疫情冲击、原料价格波动、货运价格高涨、部分地区限电限产等因素影响，行业依然表现出强大的韧性与活力，构建新发展格局迈出新步伐，高质量发展取得新成效。行业在稳定经济增长、拉动内需增长、保持全球产业链供应链通畅、以及创造人民美好生活等领域，做出了巨大的贡献。

尤其是在保持全球产业链供应链通畅方面，2021年1～11月我国纺织品服装出口总额为2852.8亿美元，同比增长7.7%，近两年年均增速为7.6%，已超过疫情前水平。在海外订单回流等因素支撑下，服装出口实现平稳增长。1～11月出口额为1543.5亿美元，同比增长25.1%，为2014年以来的最好增长水平。外贸结构更加多元，新兴经济体对我国纺织行业出口增长起到积极支撑作用，1～10月对越南、印度出口纺织原料及制品的金额同比分别增长23.3%和72.2%。

总体来看，2020年末我国全面建成小康社会之际，纺织行业基本实现《2020建设纺织强国纲要》相关目标，绝大部分指标已达到甚至领先于世界先进水平，建立起全世界最为完备的现代纺织制造产业体系，生产制造能力与国际贸易规模长期居于世界首位，成为我国制造业进入强国阵列的第一梯队。

未来，中国纺织工业将继续秉承复兴逐梦的产业理想、恢弘蹈丽的产业形象、同力协契的产业格局、追寻敢超的产业性格，加速实现外延式扩张到内涵式发展，推动新型世界纺织工业命运共同体的构建，力争到2035年我国基本实现社会主义现代化国家时，成为世界纺织科技的主要驱动者、全球时尚的重要引领者、可持续发展的有力推进者。

China Textile： 您对2022年的冬奥会有哪些祝愿？新年将近，作为国际纺联主席，您对全球纺织人的新年寄语是？

孙瑞哲：冬奥运是展现人类追求梦与雪、力与美、技与艺、善与志的最生动实践。从“更快、更高、更强”到“更快、更高、更强、更团结”，奥林匹克精神，以更适应时代的声音，击穿时空，成为构建人类命运共同体的强大力量。

2022年，以“纯洁的冰雪，激情的约会”为美好愿景，冬奥会即将在北京拉开大幕，圣洁的奥林匹克精神与古老的中华大地将再次交织。我相信，在偉大的奥林匹克精神映照下，作为满足人民对美好生活新期待的有力缔造者，作为携手应对全球不确定性挑战的有为先锋者，中国纺织工业，必将迎来一个新的理想境界，奏响一段新的发展篇章，构建一段新的时尚文明。

寅虎新年，纺织可期。值冬奥会即将来临之际，新的一年，中国纺织人，将持一颗洁白无暇的冰雪初心，秉承坚定的理想信念，以不变应万变，以热爱抵万难，为世界人民织造美丽的中国衣裳。

诚挚祝愿各位纺织同仁，各自闪耀，彼此照耀，共创荣耀！

Winter sports bring great opportunities

China Textile： The Beijing 2022 Olympic Winter Games is coming， the government has clearly set the goal of "driving 300 million people into winter sports". What do you think of the opportunities and challenges for textile enterprises？

Sun Ruizhe： Chinas successful bid to host the Beijing 2022 Olympic Winter Games has ignited the consumption enthusiasm of Chinese people for winter sports. Together with the national policy of “300 Million People Participate in Winter Sports” and continuous capital input， it offers great opportunities for Chinese winter sports clothing and equipment enterprises.

Firstly， we see great opportunities from the growth of industrial size. According to the Winter Sports Development Plan（2016-2025）， the overall size of Chinas icesnow industry will reach 600 billion yuan by 2020 and 1000 billion yuan by 2025. Also， the report of Chinas Ice-Snow Tourism Development Report （2021） shows that in the winter season of 2020-2021 the number of Chinese tourists will be 230 million， generating revenue of more than 390 billion yuan. The data center of Chinas Ministry of Culture and Tourism forecasts that in the winter season of 2021-2022 Chinese tourism will bring a total output value of 2.92 trillion yuan for industries related to signature towns， cultural creativity， winter sports， manufacturing， resort real estate and exhibitions. It is clear that the continuous size effect stimulated by growth of consumer groups and total consumption will create huge opportunities and plenty of room for imagination for Chinese producers in marketing， branding， consumption scenarios， etc.

Secondly， we see great opportunities from “dividend of policies”. For the past few years， the government has issued a series of policies such as the Winter for “300 Million People Participate in Winter Sports”（2018-2022）， Action Plan on Development of Ice-Snow Tourism （2016-2023）， Winter Sports Development Plan （2016-2025）， and the Opinions on Taking the Beijing 2022 Olympic Winter Games as an Opportunity to Vigorously Develop Winter Sports. The dividend of these policies will effectively promote the development of ice-snow industry in its size， structure and industrial chain. With the implementation of brand strategy， a number of ice-snow industry clusters will be set up to develop enterprises with high visibility and influence and strong market competitiveness， and compound ice-snow tourism bases and sports centers will be built. These will provide solid support for Chinese enterprises to get bigger and stronger.

Thirdly， we see great opportunities empowered by science and technology. On one hand， AI， big data， wearable devices…have become a standard feature for athletesgood performance in training. The intelligent wearable devices can help to measure kinematical parameters of human body so as to retrieve， collect， select and analyze the data of an athletes speed， heart rate， breath， generation of strength…which was difficult to quantify. On the other hand， new winter sports models and forms such as “simulated ice and snow”， “VR technology” and “manmachine interaction” have emerged with the application of digital technologies in ice-snow industry such as 5G technology， AI， big data， block chain， cloud computing， etc. Intelligent products and services and digital operation of ice-snow stadiums are making it possible to break the limit of winter sports only in winter， to promote winter sports from north to south， west and east， to lower the threshold of winter sports and to do winter sports all the year in all regions. In a word， technological innovation on both intelligent devices and operation pattern will bring great opportunities for Chinese enterprises to diversify consumption scenarios， meet demand of new generations and increase value-added of the brands.

Challenges and opportunities coexist. Challenges for Chinese winter sports clothing and equipment enterprises are mainly in two aspects.

In one aspect， we need to further enhance the popularity of ice-snow culture. Compared with the winter sports in countries like Austria and Japan， winter sports in China not only starts late but also is favored by only a minority. The 2019 Big Data on Chinese IceSnow Tourism Consumption issued by China Tourism Academy reveals that in Austria the skiing population accounts for 36% and per capita skiing 5.9 times. In Japan， it is 9% and 2.5 times. In China， however， it is only 1% and 1.08 times. Moreover， skiing in China is still considered as a sport for elites. According to the MobTech data， Chinese skiers are mainly 25～34 years old males with middle-high income （more than 10 thousand yuan a month） in first-tier and second-tier cities. Therefore， ice-snow culture in China is still in development stage. In addition to high income group， most winter sports consumers are just onetime experience consumers without a real cultural awareness. In future， we need deeper and wider popularity of ice-snow culture for rapid development of Chinese winter sports clothing and equipment enterprises.

In another aspect， we need to further increase mastery of core technologies. As I just said that winter sports in China starts late and the industrial foundation is weak. The winter sports clothing and equipment sector follows the development features namely high growth， high profit， high sales proportion of top brands and high barriers. Compared with foreign brands， domestic brands have further to go in terms of technological innovation， mastery of core technology and R&D input. A report indicates the market shares of domestic winter sports products are skiwear 50%， ski gloves 75%， ski glasses 73% and ski caps 25%. Due to a lack of technological competitiveness， the market shares of high-margin products such as skis， ski boots and ski sticks are almost taken by foreign brands. Meanwhile， we need more application of smart textile materials with functions like thermo control， shape memory， color shifting， information decoding and accumulation， etc.

Also， the Beijing 2022 Olympic Winter Games is definitely a good opportunity to speed up technical innovation. In 2019， National Winter Sports Administration Center worked with Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology （BIFT） to build a national winter sports clothing and equipment research center， with the goal of developing high performance clothing for winter sports training and games based on a “human body – clothing – environment” system. The center aims to become a world class industry-universityresearch platform for winter sports clothing from material selection， function design， sampling to efficiency analysis. Currently， BIFT is working on a national key project to prepare for the Olympic Winter Games. The project focuses on key technologies in R&D of high-performance clothing for winter sports training and games. By improving thermal performance of fibers and using an active heating technology， four technical challenges “speed， protection， warmth and beauty” have been overcome. The platform will help to break the bottleneck in R&D of core technologies and set a good example of innovation.

China Textile： As far as you know， what is the proportion of textile enterprises engaged in sportswear and equipment specialized in ice sports？ With the promotion of ice sports， what do you think of the future market of this kind of products？

Sun Ruizhe： Chinese market for ice-snow industry is still in its early stage， with challenges such as insufficient market penetration and incomplete industrial chain to be addressed. Also， Chinese winter sports clothing and equipment enterprises have great growth potential given the opportunities mentioned previ- ously – the growth of industrial size， dividend of policies， and science & technology empowerment. China will be one of the world major markets for skiing industry. There are three noteworthy market trends in the future.

Firstly， a diversified brand pattern will be gradually built up. At present， domestic production lines are mainly for skiing products. Enterprises of winter sports clothing and equipment can be divided into three types. Type One are niche brands long rooted in market segments， for example， companies like Running River， Cold Mountain in Beijing and like TITTALLON in Hangzhou. Type Two are mass-market brands such as TOREAD and Camel shifting from single category products to various outdoor products， and new comers like ANTA， Bosideng and 361° through joint-venture business model. Type Three are dark horse brands X-SUMMER， VECTOR， Uhznus， Snowline…which are developing rapidly through sports groups on social media as well as e-commerce platforms. A diversified brand pattern will effectively meet the consumer demand for individuality， differentiation and high-quality.

Secondly， more domestic original brands will emerge. With the overall improvement of Chinas winter sports competitiveness， the increasing market size for winter sports products and the popularity of ice-snow culture， domestic brands are emerging not only in professional sports competition but also in mass leisure consumption. Top brands are expected to get bigger and stronger. We will see a development pattern featuring high tech， optimized structure， complete industrial chain and influential brands. In other words， the high-quality industrial development will go hand in hand with the increase of market size.

In the 2020 New Vigorous Winter Life Report issued by CBNData and Tmall Sports， domestic newly-emerged brands such as NANDN， VECTOR and Nobaday are all on the list of “Top 10 favorite ice-snow brands in Generation Z”. In Dec. 2020， the sales of ski equipment were 13 times of that in the same period last year. According to TianYanCha data， the number of registered enterprises doing skiing related business is increasing significantly from 2015. In 2019 the number is over 1，000. Now it is over 6，400. Also， there are more than 40 companies doing ski equipment business serving a niche market.

Thirdly， we will see more coordinated R&D in both the industrial chain upstream and downstream. New textile materials including new fibers， new nonwoven materials， smart materials and eco-friendly finishing materials are the key to high-quality development of winter sports clothing and equipment sector. From the functional， bio-chemical and high-performance fibers come the opportunities for high-quality development. Taking Winter Olympics economy as an example， the R&D of new materials， new process and new design of the upstream fabrics enterprises will provide strong support to the high-quality functional products of downstream brands.

There are some good examples - Shanghai Challenge Textile Company has signed a contract with ANTA， the cooperation partner of Beijing Winter Olympics Organizing Committee， supplying super warm fleece fabrics for all kinds of Winter Olympics work scenes. Shaoxing Qian Yong Textiles Company， a uniform fabrics supplier for Winter Olympics， offers strong technical support with its unique nylon printing technology and process to restore unique colors in designs. The NuSkin synthetic fabrics of Jiangsu Sunfeng Fabrics Technology Company are ecofriendly and suitable for jackets and down coats. The Zero-Down Collection of Suzhou Xing-TEX Company can save more energy and reduce carbon dioxide emission by cutting waste discharge in the process of producing down. It can be predicted that coordinated R&D in the industrial chain upstream and downstream will provide more professional and stronger technical support for our industry to effectively participation in global market competition.

Independent brand needs to realize "three enhancements"

China Textile： Compare with worlds top outdoor professional sports brands， what should domestic brands focus on for further improvement？

Sun Ruizhe： Countries like Austria and Germany have the advantages in branding and technical innovation. By contrast， Chinese producers of ski products， weak in branding and core technology， are mainly doing OEM or acting as dealers. Therefore， we need to strengthen three aspects.

Firstly， we need to strengthen technical R&D to build“technology brands”. President Xi Jinping stressed during his inspection visit to Capital Stadium that science and technology should play an active role in higher training level for Olympic games. In the new round of technological revolution and industrial evolution， Chinese winter sports brands need to start from the beginning of the industrial chain making continuous input on in-depth core technology R&D. From technology import to self-independent R&D， new materials， technologies， services and investment will help to attract more and more people into winter sports.

For example， the BIFT works together with 6 universities and 4 companies to develop four key technologies for “speed， protection， warmth and beauty”， making innovative breakthrough on winter sports clothing for racing， protection， low-temperature resistance and sports acrobatics. ANTA Group has set up a center in Tokyo， Japan， developing high-tech winter sports clothing and equipment by a world top designing team.

Secondly， we need to strengthen design capability to build “fashion brands”. Through in-depth study on new product requirements in the upgrading of consumption， we need to take root in Chinese ice-snow culture and make both inward and outward exploration to turn “cold”resources into a “hot” industry. Only in this way can we enhance the design capability， brand influence， lifestyle originality and diversified markets for domestic winter sports products.

The crossover cooperation of top brands is an important way to build “symbolic brands” for stylish consumers worldwide. For example， the cooperation of Dior and AK Skis， Burton and Keith Haring （the worlds most popular street graffiti artist） brings us jointly-designed products such as skis， raglan sleeves T-shirts and hooded ski jackets. Also， we have the Uniqlo x Ayumu Hirano ski wear series.

For example， the domestic youth-oriented brand Nobaday has become as popular as brands Stüssy and BAPE in Fairfax， a fashion zone in Los Angeles of America in less than six years. It has also signed 100 world top skiers including Max Parrot， Team Riders and Regional Riders. We will see the brand in the Beijing 2022 Olympic Winter Games with its products for athletes from China， Japan， Norway， Finland， etc.

Three changes are taking place in the world

China Textile： What do you think of the current development status of global industry？

Sun Ruizhe： The world is undergoing changes unseen in a century. It has a profound impact on the global textile and apparel industries in three aspects - science and technology revolution fully fused with industrial revolution， accelerated digital transformation， and low-carbon growth in harmony with nature. In developed countries and regions， manufacturing industries are coming back with the implementation of innovation strategy to reshape competitive advantages based on high and new technologies. In emerging economies like Vietnam， Bangladesh， Indonesia and Cambodia， we see an inflow of international capacity and orders as well as rapid growth of textile and garment exports to the world. These will present bigger challenges and higher requirements to Chinas textile and apparel industry in reconstructing advantages， adjusting industrial structure and regional layout， improving industrial ecosystem and promoting green development.

The development of global textile economy shows three important characteristics.

Deep adjustment of industrial chains. The comparative advantages and factor values of global industries are changing. With the returning of manufacturing industries in developed economies， rising of emerging markets， profound changes in international division of labor， we see fiercer competition and the urgency of transformation in industrial chains. In a context of superpower games， the external circulation of knowledge， technology and talents is encountering more resistance， and selfindependent innovation becomes a must to secure a place in global value chains.

Driving force of digital economy. The development and application of technologies such as AI， block chain and big data are reforming the innovation and development patterns of world textile industries. Digitalization is driving the upgrading of equipment and tools and fostering new organization structure and operation models. Intelligent manufacturing and marketing are promoting higher coordination and coupling of industrial chain upstream and downstream， which ensures timely supply-demand matching and optimized allocation and efficient circulation of production factors. Interconnection， coexistence and extension are becoming an important trend. VR technology brings new consumption scenarios from online to on the scene.

Strategic choice of green development. Social equity and justice， balanced and coordinated economic growth， harmonious coexistence of human and nature are the common values pursued by global textile industries. It has become a strategic choice for every country to achieve the goal of carbon emission peak and carbon neutrality. An industrial ecosystem featuring green production， green marketing， green consumption and green financing is taking shape. The value space of green and responsible markets is opening. Systemic changes are taking place covering allocation of factors， product supply， market rules， path mode， etc. The industry is in a period of phasing out high pollution and high energy-consumption capacity. With sustainability as a key task， technical innovation will focus on low carbon emission， high efficiency， low discharge and a full life cycle of products.

China Textile： What is the status quo of Chinas textile industry？ What role does it play in the global textile industry？

Sun Ruizhe： After decades of high-speed development， China has become the worlds largest textile and garment producer， exporter and consumer. As the worlds biggest textile economy， the advantages of Chinas textile and apparel industry in system and size continue to be strengthened. We have the worlds largest and most complete industrial system with manufacturing capacity and international trade volume long ranking first in the world. Meanwhile， the quality and efficiency of industrial development improve continuously. Significant progress has been made in structural adjustment， and the industrial position in global value chains rises steadily. The evergreen brands such as Li-Ning， ANTA and Bosideng， with a sustained effort in tech innovation， branding and green development， are expected to become world famous brands.

In spite of the pandemic hit， ups and downs of raw material prices， high cost of shipment， power and production restriction in some regions， Chinas textile and apparel industry still shows great resilience and vitality in building a new development pattern and pursuing high-quality development. The industry has made great contributions in stabilizing economic growth， stimulating domestic demand， keeping global industrial and supply chains stable and creating better life for people.

This year， from Jan. to Nov.， Chinas total export of textiles and garments was 285.26 billion USD， a year-on-year increase of 7.7% and a two-year annual growth rate of 7.6%， which is above the pre-pandemic level. Garment export witnessed a stable growth given the backflow of overseas orders. From Jan. to Nov.， garment export was 154.35 billion USD， up 25.1% year on year， the best record since 2014. Diversification of foreign trade structure and emerging economies play an active role in the growing export of Chinas textile and apparel products. From Jan. to Oct.， the export value of Chinas textile raw materials and products to Vietnam and India increased 23.3% and 72.2% respectively.

When China achieved its first centenary goal of building a moderately prosperous society in all respects by 2020， Chinas textile and apparel industry basically achieved the goals in its 2020 development plan. A complete modern textile manufacturing system has been established， with manufacturing capacity and international trade volume long ranking first in the world.

In future， we will stay committed to the industrial mission –making continuous contributions to national rejuvenation. promoting the shift from extensive to intensive development， and fostering the building of a world textile community with a shared future. We will try to make Chinas textile and apparel industry a key driver for science and technology innovation， an important leader in world fashion and a firm promoter of sustainability by 2025.

China Textile： Do you have any wishes to the Olympic Winter Games？ Also do you have any words to global textile practitioners for the coming new year？

Sun Ruizhe： The Olympic Winter Games displays the most vivid practice of humanity in chasing dreams and snow， strength and beauty， skills and arts， kindness and ambition. The Olympic spirit from “faster， higher and stronger” to “faster， higher， stronger and closer” echoes the call of the times. It breaks the time and space boundaries， and becomes a strong power for building a human community with a shared future.

With a good vision of “joyful rendezvous upon pure ice and snow”， we will welcome theBeijing 2022 Olympic Winter Games soon . The holy Olympic spirit will once again come to the Chinese land. I believe， in the glory of great Olympic spirit， Chinas textile & apparel industry， as a creator of better life for people and a frontrunner in joint work to meet challenges， will surely reach a new level， open a new development chapter and build a new fashion culture.

In the new year of Tiger， we will see new hope for textile & apparel industry. On the occasion of the Olympic Winter Games， Chinese textile practitioners with an original aspiration as pure as ice and snow and firm faith， will march in confident strides toward the goal of weaving beautiful Chinese clothes for people worldwide.

My best wishes to all of you – may we enjoy personal success， mutual support and win-win achievement in the new coming year！