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茶博会上的“国际范”

2017-07-24戚永晔

文化交流 2017年7期
关键词:外宾龙井博会

戚永晔

国内的茶叶博览会很多,仅仅今年上半年,就有北京、广州、西安、济南等城市举办。大有你方唱罢我登场的热闹架势。

但是,能冠以“国际”头衔的茶博会却只此一家,别无分号。这就是5月中旬在杭州举行的首届中国国际茶叶博览会。百度搜索“国际茶叶博览会”,找到结果3,760,000个,齐齐指向了这次刷爆了我们朋友圈的盛会。

究竟是哪些元素,让此次茶博会喊出了响当当的“国际”口号?

了解:“国际范”从这里起步

根据国家农业部提供的数据,本次国际茶博会,共吸引了来自47个国家和国际机构的260名外宾参加。

数据当然是最直接的,但绝不是最生动的。众多的外宾、客商,在来到这片土地的时候,也开始了解这里的茶与这里的文化。“国际范”就从这里起步。

在宣布茶博会召开的前夕,许多提前来到杭州的国际友人已经按捺不住好奇的心情,开始接触这里的茶。而主办方作为“暖场活动”,专门为来自世界各地的嘉宾安排的“世界茶乡·中国之夜”品茶会尤为值得一提。

品茶会上,30余名外宾品尝了西湖龙井代表的绿茶、福鼎老白茶代表的白茶、蒙顶黄芽代表的黄茶、云南滇红代表的红茶、安化黑茶代表的黑茶、凤凰单丛代表的青茶……一道道最具中国特色的茶,按照由淡及浓的顺序,配合着传统的地方茶点被端到嘉宾面前,一道道慢品,一道道悦享。

斯洛文尼亚副总理兼农林食品部部长戴扬·日丹参加了这次别致的品茶会,对中国茶文化的博大精深非常感慨,他说:“越了解中国的茶文化,就越认识到中国茶是一种健康的饮品,每天喝上一杯茶就不用看医生了。”一位印度的官员也发出类似的感慨,他说:“看到中国有如此多的好茶,更应该磋商交流共同发展茶文化和茶产业的绿色发展,如何在尽量少破坏自然环境的情况下提升茶叶的产量和品质。”

除了品尝中国茶,主办方还贴心地为国外来宾安排了众多接近茶文化的环节。在博览会期间,各国外宾来到风景如画的西湖景区,体验杭州别具韵味的茶乡风情。来宾们对秀丽的龙井茶园、美丽的茶叶博物馆和具有深厚底蕴的传统茶文化都留下了深刻的印象。

5月19日,9个国家25名外宾走进了中国茶叶博物馆双峰馆区和龙井馆区。在讲解员的带領下参观了以中国茶文化为主题的中华茶文化展,并品尝了由茶艺师准备的西湖龙井茶和乌龙茶。随后,中茶博茶艺队还为来宾表演了西湖茶礼,获得了嘉宾们的一致赞赏。

茶博丰富的藏品和美轮美奂的茶礼给大家极深刻的震撼。布隆迪农业与畜牧业部部长汝瑞马(Rurema)说:“西湖茶礼展现了中国茶文化的深厚历史和人文内涵,只有在有历史的国家才能看到这样精彩的秀。”圣多美和普林西比农业和农村发展部部长康柏斯(Campos)则表示:“中国数千年的茶文化历史到今天依然蓬勃发展,这种兼具历史和现实的繁荣是世界上不多见的。”

参与:“国际范”的对话与交流

如果说了解中国茶只是“国际范”的第一步,那么拿出各国自己的茶叶、饮料,与中国茶对话、交流,则是这次国际茶博会上老外们更热衷参与的盛事。

短短4天的展期,无数闻所未闻的茶叶展位出现在茶博会会场,让参会的中国人、外国人都大饱眼福。

来自布隆迪、津巴布韦、肯尼亚这几个地方的茶叶最能引起观众的好奇心,不少看展的客人都在问:“非洲也有茶园吗?”

台湾茶主产地的南投县设有专门的展位,洞顶乌龙、日月潭红茶、高山茶等特色茶产品琳琅满目并由台湾茶艺师现场表演碗泡红茶,深受大众欢迎。一位杭州商人现场就下单了三万元洞顶乌龙茶,他说:“也只有在茶博会上,才能看见如此正宗的台湾茶。”而组织本次南投县参展的农会负责人表示,杭州和台湾两地都是产茶胜地,茶文化和茶产业交流合作基础深厚,相互参与交流是两岸共同弘扬中华茶文化,进一步推动两岸茶产业走向世界的机遇。

也有没有茶叶的国家来“凑热闹”的,比如意大利和哥伦比亚,都拿出了本国“压箱底”的咖啡品牌,在茶博会上来了一次茶咖对话。

在意大利展区,CLICKCAFé公司的斯蒂芬妮用灿烂的笑脸欢迎每一位前来咨询的中国商户和游客。“中国的茶比意大利的好,意大利没有茶,但是我们有美味的咖啡!来参加这次茶博会除了要将意大利人对咖啡的热情传递给中国人外,更重要的还要了解中国茶,寻找一起合作做茶的伙伴。中国拥有高质量的茶,我们要买过来,在意大利卖出原汁原味的中国茶!”

哥伦比亚驻华大使奥斯卡·鲁埃达也出现在茶博会现场,他说,哥伦比亚以其卓越的咖啡品质闻名于世,在中国的时候,每天早上喝咖啡,下午喝茶,咖啡和茶的完美结合让他一天都保持清醒,让外交活动也能够顺利进行。

合作:“国际范”前程似锦

“投我以木桃,报之以琼瑶”,只为互通互利,永结友好。

此次国际茶博会上,一场在杭州国际博览中心举行的斗茶大会尤为值得一提。来自韩国、斯里兰卡、也门的8位外国茶友进行识茶、品茶、泡茶等茶艺切磋。

活动共分成两轮,第一轮为中国十大名茶评审环节,选手随机抽取10种茶样中的一种,用中文对其进行干茶和茶汤的审评,通过对茶叶干茶“色香味形”的描述和茶汤滋味的品评,与评委现场互动。8名选手都表达了自己第一次喝到西湖龙井的感受。无论哪个国家的选手,都表示第一次喝中国茶的感受是美好的。其中来自斯里兰卡的选手表示,希望全世界都能喝到中国好茶——西湖龙井。

第二轮斗西湖龙井冲泡技艺,8位选手用规定的器具、在规定的时间内,完成了西湖龙井的冲泡。评委根据选手的冲泡技艺以及茶汤滋味进行打分。从前,斗茶也叫斗茗,始于唐代,盛行于宋代,是中国传统茶文化习俗的综合呈现。而今天,邀请老外也来参加斗茶,正是中外以茶为纽带、共商合作的肇始。

“本届茶博会是一次国际色彩浓郁、茶界影响巨大、杭州元素突出的茶界盛会。”如浙江省副省长孙景淼所言,中国国际茶叶博览会今后将永久落户杭州,每年举行。浙江将以茶为媒、以茶会友,交流合作、互利共赢,把茶博会打造成中国同世界交流合作的一个重要平台。

無独有偶,农业部部长韩长赋也在主旨演讲中说道:中国是茶的发源地。从公元5世纪开始,中国茶及茶文化流传到世界各地。现在,全球产茶国和地区已达60多个,茶叶产量近600万吨,贸易量超过200万吨,饮茶人口超过20亿。一代又一代的“丝路人”以茶为媒,以茶会友,架起了各国间合作的纽带、和平的桥梁。

Among various tea expos held across China every year, the China International Tea Expo that made its successful debut in Hangzhou in May of this year proved itself truly “international”.

Statistics from the Ministry of Agriculture show the 2017 exposition drew participation of 260 foreign visitors from 47 countries and international organizations. Special warm-up tea-themed activities were arranged for international guests to savor the fragrance of Chinese tea and the charm of the countrys tea culture. Such cultural immersion has proved a key contributor to the unique “international” quality of the Hangzhou tea expo.

Take the expos tea sampling session for example, all the 30 participating foreign guests had a taste of Chinas most famous tea and ‘tea snack varieties – represented by the West Lake Longjing, from the countrys most reputed tea producing regions. The guests included Vice Prime Minister of Slovenia and a government official from India.

“The more I know about the tea culture of China, the more I realize why tea is widely recognized as a healthy drink,” said the Slovenian.

“Seeing so many high quality tea varieties in China, I feel the urgent need to share ideas with our Chinese counterparts about how to put the tea industry onto a truly ‘green track in its future development. We should put in more serious thoughts about further improving the quality and productivity while keeping environmental hazard at a minimal level,” said the Indian official.

A dozen cultural immersion activities arranged by the organizer of the expo brought the guests closer to Chinas magnificent tea culture encapsulated in the mesmerizing beauty of the West Lake and the sprawling tea plantations around Longjing. At the China Tea Museum in Shuangfeng and Longjing, 25 foreign guests from nine countries sampled the Longjing Tea of the year and oolong tea, and feasted the eye on a dazzling collection of tea-themed antiques and the “West Lake tea ceremony”.

“It takes a country with a history of more than 5,000 years to have something as cultural and graceful as the tea ceremony, and the long-standing prosperity of Chinas tea culture dating back thousands of years ago is rarely seen anywhere else in the world,” said Campos, minister of the Agriculture and Rural Development Ministry of Sao Tome and Principe, after watching the show.

The four-day expo saw the debut of many tea varieties including several from African countries (Burundi, Zimbabwe, and Kenya). Booths representing Nantou, the key tea producer of Taiwan, were among the best-sellers.

One of the big highlights of the tea expo of this year was the participation of coffee makers such as Italy and Columbia.

“We live in a country that makes the worlds best coffee but does not have tea. We are here to share Italian peoples passion in coffee with the Chinese people and learn more about the Chinese tea culture and bring back home authentic Chinese tea,” remarked Stefanie, representing an Italian company taking part in the expo.

The expos ‘tea fight, held at the Hangzhou International Expo Center and designed for participants to better understand the Chinese tea culture through hands-on activities, drew participation of eight foreigners from South Korea, Sri Lanka and Yemen. The tradition of ‘tea fight has a history dating back in the Tang Dynasty and reached its heyday in the Song period. Contestants are required to make tea in the allotted amount of time and rated by a panel of judges.

This years expo announced Hangzhou to be the permanent venue for this yearly international tea carnival. The expo promises to serve as an important platform for the ‘tea communication between Zhejiang Province and its domestic and international peers.

China is the origin of the tea culture that is reaching an unprecedentedly wide audience in todays world. The Chinese tea culture is now shared by the whole world, with the yearly global yield nearing six million tons and the total trade volume topping two million tons. Tea is consumed by more than two billion people in the world, and plays a special role in the cultural talks among people from different countries and speaking different languages.

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