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忘掉海岛，在爪哇“巴黎”游弋

◇ 文 |韩 希

图片来源：东方IC

当我们谈论印度尼西亚的时候，最高频的词汇是巴厘岛、潜水、冲浪、度假。据说每年到印尼旅游的外国人里，最多的就是中国人。

从首都雅加达往东南方向驱车2小时，到达印尼第三大城、西爪哇省首府——万隆。相比印尼其他旅游城市，这里多了一些宁静。而时光倒回62年前，这座城市却发出了振聋发聩的声音——

世界史上第一次由曾遭受帝国主义侵略和奴役的亚洲、非洲国家发起和参加的大型国际性会议万隆会议，62年前在万隆举行；7天会期，168个小时，周恩来总理兼外长率领中国代表团参加会议，创造性地提出和平共处五项原则，成为建立新型国家关系和国际新秩序的准则。会议后，中国同亚非民族独立国家的关系突飞猛进，和平外交得以广泛开展。

而在2017年5月8日，重庆市长张国清会见印尼西爪哇省省长艾哈默德•赫亚万一行，共同签订了两市省友城关系协议，这又唤醒了我们对这座高原盆地城市的记忆。游弋在印尼一个没有海岛的城市，会是怎样的体验呢？

When we speak of Indonesia, the most high frequency words are Bali, diving, surfing, holiday. It is said that the most people are Chinese among the foreign travelers every year to the target place.

It took 2 hours to drive from the capital city Jakarta in the southeast direction reaching Indonesia's third largest city, the capital of West Java __Bandung. There are some more peace and serenity compared to other tourist cities in Indonesia. Well, time to rewind 62 years ago ，the city has issued a deafening sound.

The large-scale international Bandung meeting, initiated and participated by Asia and African countries the fi rst time in the world history which subjected to the imperial aggression and enslavement, was held in Bandung 62 years ago with a 7 -day session and 168 hours. The Chinese delegation headed by the Premier and foreign minister Zhou Enlai participated in the meeting, and creatively put forward the Five Principles of Peaceful Coexistence as guidelines of the establishment of new national relations and new international order. After the meeting, the relationship had been advancing by leaps and bounds between the Asian-African independent states and China, and peaceful diplomacy has gained its momentum.

Chongqing Mayor Zhang Guoqing met with the governor of the West Java province On May 8, 2017.They signed a joint agreement on Sister relationship between the two cities and provinces, which awakened us the memory of the plateau-basin city with gorgeously geographic features. What is the experience of traveling in a city without an island in Indonesia?

庄园主的度假胜地Planter's Holiday Paradise

万隆位于爪哇岛西部火山群峰环抱的高原盆地中，城市海拔 719米。万隆（Bandung）古称“勃良安”，意为“仙之国”，现名意为“山连山”。独特的地势如同天然防御体系，荷兰东印度群岛政府最初计划将殖民地首府从雅加达迁至万隆的首因正是基于此。

18世纪，荷兰殖民者先是在山上建立了茶叶种植园，然后又修了一条从种植园区到雅加达的路。这里景色秀丽，清静幽雅，气候宜人，富裕的茶园主人们喜欢在周末到市里度假，不少女士和商人自雅加达追随而来。于是布拉加街成了有名的步行街，开着奢华的酒店，餐厅，咖啡馆，还有欧洲精品店。人们给万隆取了个荷兰名，翻译成中文即“爪哇的巴黎”。

时至今日，居住在雅加达的人们很流行到万隆过周末。高地庄园的凉爽天气、多种多样的食物、奥特莱斯工厂店、高尔夫球场、动物园都是人们心心念念的地方。尤其是一些马来西亚和新加坡游客很喜欢到万隆买东西，因为这里的纺织品和时尚产品很便宜。城市周围环绕着肥沃的高地，风景如画的茶园和果园星罗棋布，成为户外运动爱好者的首选之地.

图片来源：东方IC

在万隆街头，

一些商贩在街边卖油画，

好似一个公开画廊装点着路旁。

他们把这些油画当做城市纪念品。

Located in the basin of plateau that is surrounded by volcanic mountains and peaks in the western part of Java Island, Bandung enjoy an altitude of 719 meters. It is known as "Bo Liang An" in ancient times with the meaning of "country of immortals "，now "mountains connecting mountains". Unique terrain acts as a natural defense system and that’s why the Dutch East Indies government initially planned to move the capital of the colonies from Jakarta to Bandung.

Dutch colonists first established tea plantations in the mountains and then built a road from the plantation area to Jakarta in the 18th century. Bandung possessed beautiful scenery, elegant and quiet environment as well as pleasant weather, which drove rich tea garden owners to go to the city on weekend holiday, many ladies and businessmen from Jakarta took the page from them. Therefore Braga Street had become a famous pedestrian street standing luxury hotels, restaurants, cafes, as well as European boutiques. People titled Bandung a Dutch name, which translated into Chinese for "Paris of Java ".

UP to now, people living in Jakarta tend to go to Bandung for the weekend. Highland manor's cool weather, a wide variety of food, Outlets factory shops, golf courses, and zoos are attractions which people are obsessed with. In particular, some Malaysian and Singapore tourists like to buy things in Bandung, because the textiles and fashion products are very cheap. Surrounded by fertile highlands, picturesque tea gardens and dotted by orchards, the citymakes itself the first choice for outdoor enthusiasts.

图片来源：东方IC

打卡“亚非朋友圈”Punch card in "Asian- African friends circle"

在万隆最繁华的街道亚非大街中央，一栋全白色外观的低矮建筑极为显眼，建筑物前满是旗杆。这栋拥有近百年历史的建筑，1921年由荷兰建筑师沃尔夫•舒梅克设计建造，初名为“社会协和馆”，是荷兰殖民者和上流人士的聚会场所，日据时期一度被更名为“大东亚会馆”；1955年，为了举办首届亚非会议，苏加诺总统将其定名为“独立大厦”；1980年，印尼政府将会议旧址辟为“亚非会议纪念博物馆”。

那是一次反对殖民主义、推动亚非各国民族独立的会议，被视为不结盟运动的重要里程碑，“万隆精神”由此发祥。这场史无前例的会议为中国赢得了亚非国家广泛的“朋友圈”，这些友谊一直持续到了今天。

当年会议的铿锵似乎渐渐褪去，这里没有雅加达的炽热，也没有巴厘岛的游人如织，更谈不上惊艳。我的印尼朋友李达宁告诉我，他对万隆的印象是，当地人很有创造力，总是发明些新奇的食物，那里关于吃的生意很火，“可以说万隆就是爪哇岛的时尚中心”。

In the middle of Asia-Africa Avenue, Bandung's most bustling streets, a low rise in a full white appearance is very conspicuous with many flagpoles standing in front of it. This building with a history of nearly 100 years was constructed and designed by the Dutch architect Wolf Schumacher in 1921.Widelyknown as the "Pavilion of Society’s Harmony ", It served as the gathering place of Dutch colonists and the upper class .In the period of Japanese occupation, It was once renamed the "Greater East Asia Hall". In order to host the first Asian-African meeting in 1955, President Sukarno named the building"Plaza Merdeka". In 1980 the Indonesian government changed it into "Asia-Africa Conference Memorial Museum."

The Bandung Conference was an important milestone in the fight against colonialism and the promotion of national independence of Asian and African countries, which marked the beginning of non-aligned movement and the Bandung Spirits advocated. This unprecedented meeting made for China to enlarge the “friends circle” of the Asian and African countries, whose friendships have continued to this day.

The sonorous voice and spectacle scene seem to gradually fade away in people’s memory. Without Jakarta's hot weather and an ocean of visitors in Bali,even the amazing attractions, Bandung enjoys its outstanding excellence in other aspects. My Indonesian friend Li Daning told me his impression of Bandung is that the locals are very creative by frequently inventing some novelty food, where the catering industry is very hot. “It can be said that Bandung is the fashion center of Java.”

“远在天边”近在眼前As far as the horizon, As near as your eye.

万隆既然是“爪哇的巴黎”，那么到了万隆，想必自会念及带有几分神秘色彩的爪哇文化。爪哇，即爪哇岛，在行政上由万丹、西爪哇、中爪哇、东爪哇三个省和大雅加达首都、日惹两个特区组成。古代东南亚古国爪哇国正坐落于此。许多文学作品里倒是时常提到它，比如，《水浒传》里写“那怒气直钻过爪哇国去了”，意指远在海外，迷迷茫茫，进而引申遥远虚无之处，“九霄云外”。

印尼是一个多民族国家，在印尼300多个民族中，人口最多的是爪哇族。爪哇人追求内外一致的高雅，拥有忠诚践行义务职责的敏感内心。

在爪哇，有一种独特的戏剧型式——哇扬皮影偶戏（Wayang Kulit），被联合国教科文组织列为人类非物质文化遗产。在哇扬剧目中，人们看到旷世的征战，英雄的牺牲，人性的矛盾，凄美的爱情，浓缩塑造了一个多彩而和谐的爪哇社会。哇扬塑造了一位可谓颠覆英雄形象的角色瑟玛尔（Semar），长相滑稽搞笑且充满矛盾，却被视为保护神。男主人公一路上遭遇各种危险，因为有瑟玛尔的保护，总能化险为夷；当主角过于激进、冲动，瑟玛尔出面制止，避免他犯错；英雄伤心难过，瑟玛尔就讲各种笑话哄他开心；英雄孤独无助，瑟玛尔始终耐心陪伴。瑟玛尔的“人设”符合了爪哇哲学：内在远比外在重要；但求付出不问回报；永远心怀敬畏之心。

忘却巴厘岛风光，踏上西爪哇省，寻近现代史的里程碑，品专注内在的高雅，不失为一次走心的印尼之行。

Since it has the reputation of "Paris of Java ",Bandung presumably is invested with a somewhat mysterious Java culture. Java, that is, the island of Java, administratively consists of the Banten, West Java, Central Java, East Java the three provinces and the capital of Greater Jakarta, Yogyakarta the two special zones. The ancient kingdom of Java in Southeast Asia is located here which is frequentlymentioned in many literary works, for example,Water Margin reads "that anger straight runs to the Java country," which means it is far away overseas,transience mystery and at sea.

Indonesia boasts of a multi-ethnic country. The largest population is the Javanese among more than 300 ethnic groups. Javanese pursuits the elegance from both inside and outside with highly loyalty toperform the duty.

WayangKulit is an unique type of drama in Java,which is listed as a human intangible cultural heritage by the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization. In the repertoires of WayangKulit, people can have an eye feast on the masterly battle, heroic sacrifice, human contradictions,poignant love，which shape a colorful and harmonious Java society in a concentrate form . WayangKulit shaped a role that can be described as subversive heroic image —Semar who looks funny with contradictions. However he was regarded as the protection of God. The hero has suffered all sorts of dangers on the way and can always head off a danger with the protection of Semar. When the protagonist presents overly radical and impulsive, Sermar came forward to prevent him from mistakes; when sad, Sermar gave out a variety of jokes to amuse him; when lonely and helpless, Sirmar always presented enough patience to accompany. The role of Sermar conforms to the philosophy of Java: Inner heart is much more important than the outside; serve others silently without expecting anything in return; regard everything with awe forever.

Forget the scenery of Bali, set foot on West Java province, and find the milestone of modern history.The trip to Indonesia will give you a deep travel not only to the local place, but also to your inner heart.

Forget the island and admire “Paris of Java”

Article | Han Xi