The Perfect Trip: Lapland (I)

by Anthony Ham翻译：寒星

完美假期：游走拉普兰（I）

2017年的第一期世界风情馆，小编将要带大家去哪里走走呢？哈哈，这次我们将一同前往北欧的拉普兰！独特的极地风光和原住民族风情啊，你是否已经准备去好好探索一番了？啥？光这一期还玩儿不够啊？我就知道！不急不急，在下一期，小编还会继续带你游走拉普兰哦！嘻嘻～

Luleå: Best for Activities

Here, skiing and skating are less leisure pursuits than ways of life adapted to the1)ice-bound landscape. Until two decades ago, the indigenous Sami followed their migrating2)reindeer herds on skis from Sweden’s far north to Luleå. These days, local children learn to skate almost as soon as they can walk.

From December to April, the rivers and sea3)inlets that surround Luleå are turned into almost two miles of cleared ice. Sleds replace4)prams, dog owners ski instead of walk and young people skate across town to visit friends. Joining them couldn’t be easier, and gliding across the frozen sea is an5)exhilarating first step towards6)embracing the Lapland winter. But it is7)dog-sledding that gives the greatest thrill—sitting on reindeer skins draped over long wooden sleds, while expert8)mushers drive their teams of9)Siberian huskies along trails, is an invigorating experience.

“The lead dogs are the real extensions of my will,” the dog owner Richard says, pointing at the dog with10)unrestrained affection. “There’s a mythology surrounding the huskies with blue eyes. They say that they can see the spirit world and the wind.”

“This is the only way to travel,”Richard says, easing to a halt. “You can get close to everything. You can hear the wind and see the wildlife. You become a part of nature. The longer you spend with the dogs, the more it becomes a spiritual thing, something that connects you with the animals and the land in a11)profound way.”

1) ice-bound冰封的

2) reindeer ['reɪndɪə] n. 驯鹿

3) inlet ['ɪnlet] n. 小海湾，入口

4) pram [præm] n. 平底船

5) exhilarating [ɪg'zɪləreɪtɪŋ] adj. 使人兴奋的

6) embrace [ɪm'breɪs] v. 拥抱，迎接

7) dog-sledding 乘坐狗拉雪橇

8) musher [mʌʃə] n. 赶狗拉雪橇的人

9) Siberian husky 西伯利亚雪橇犬

10) unrestrained [ʌnrɪ'streɪnd] adj. 无约束的，无限制的

11) profound [prə'faʊnd] adj. 意义深远的

Know More

Sami（萨米人），亦称Lapp（拉普人），是欧洲最大的一个原住民族群，分别居住在瑞典、芬兰、挪威和俄罗斯这四个国家里，属于北欧人种。萨米人开垦的地区常被简称为“拉普兰”。萨米人有着自己丰富的民族文化，能讲七种不同的方言。

Gammelstad and Harads: Best for Architecture

The cottages that surround the 15thcentury stone church in Gammelstad tell one of Lapland’s more curious12)tales: this is a village where no-one slept for more than a single night in any given week.

At the time it was built, every person was required by law to attend church. The solution in this vast and thinly populated land was to build “church villages” like Gammelstad. There were once more than 70 such villages across northern Sweden and Gammelstad is the largest and best-preserved of the 16 that remain. Today, it’s a Unesco World Heritage Site注.

Some cottages survive here in their original form. No one lives in the old heart of the town now, but it’s as if the13)inhabitants are expected back at any moment. “The cottages have survived for centuries,” says Camilla, a local historian who was14)baptised in the church and whose family owns one of the cottages. “But the houses were built without nails so that the owners could15)dismantle them in an hour in case of fre. All of the houses are privately owned, and people still come here to stay at weekends.”

In this northern Swedish forest, in tree houses designed by16)leading Swedish architects, guests go to their rest17)in the knowledge that theirs is a room unlike any other in the world.

“We wondered what people would most expect to see in a forest.” says Britta, who owns the Treehotel with her husband Kent. “A bird’s nest. So we built one. This is the one I like when I want to hide from the world. What would people least expect? A UFO. So we built that, too. It makes me think of my grandchildren. And if I’m feeling romantic, I love the cabin.”

“I want guests to come away with a sense of fun and magic,” says Britta. “I also want the designs to make people think about what it means to return to nature. Fun, philosophy and trees. That’s what this is all about.”

Know More

Gammelstad（加默尔斯塔德教堂村，亦称Gammelstad Church Town）是瑞典北博滕省吕勒奥附近的一个小镇，位于波的尼亚湾的最北部。它完整地保留了斯堪的纳维亚北部早期教堂村庄的特点，于1996年被联合国教科文组织评为世界文化遗产。

注：即联合国教科文组织确定的世界遗产地。

12) tale [teɪl] n. 传说，故事

13) inhabitant [ɪn'hæbɪtənt] n. 居民

14) baptise [bæp'taɪz] v. 施洗礼

15) dismantle [dɪs'mæntl] v. 拆卸

16) leading ['liːdɪŋ] adj. 最重要的，主要的

17) in the knowledge that 在知道……的情况下

吕勒奥：活动圣地

在这里，与其他适合于冰天雪地的生活方式相比，滑雪和滑冰并不那么轻松。直到二十年前，土著萨米人总是跟随着他们的驯鹿群一同迁徙，坐着雪橇从遥远的瑞典北部来到了吕勒奥。现如今，当地的小孩几乎是一学会走路便去学习滑冰了。

从每年的12月到次年4月，环绕着吕勒奥的河流和入海口就会被冻成近两英里宽的晶莹冰面。于是雪橇替代了小船，养狗人乘坐雪橇代步，年轻人则滑着冰穿过小镇去探望朋友。要加入他们的行列再简单不过了，滑过冰封的海面是拥抱拉普兰严冬激动人心的第一步。不过，乘坐狗拉雪橇才是最刺激的—坐在铺着驯鹿皮的木制长雪橇上，老练的狗拉雪橇师傅赶着一群群的西伯利亚雪橇犬在小路上飞奔，这是一种令人兴奋的体验。

“领头的狗是我意志的真正延伸，”理查德师傅指着那只狗说道，话语中流露出无限的喜爱之情。“这些蓝眼爱斯基摩犬身上流传着神话。据说它们能通灵，还能看见风。”

“这是出行的唯一方式，”理查德一边说着一边停下了雪橇。“你可以与所有事物亲密接触。你可以听见风，并能见到野生动物。你成为了大自然的一部分。你和这些狗相处的时间越长，这一切就越会有一股超自然的力量，有某些东西在将你与这些动物、这片土地以一种深刻的方式连结在了一起。”

加默尔斯塔德教堂村与哈拉斯：建筑的艺术宝地

在加默尔斯塔德，那些围绕着15世纪的石砌教堂而建的村舍诉说着拉普兰一件更为稀奇的事：在这个村庄里，任何一周都不会有人在这儿过夜超过一个晚上。

在加默尔斯塔德教堂村创建的年代，法律规定每位村民都必须到教堂做礼拜。在这片广阔且人烟稀少的土地上，解决这个难题的办法便是兴建更多像加默尔斯塔德一样的“教堂村”。在瑞典北部曾有70多个这样的村庄，而加默尔斯塔德是留存下来的16个教堂村中最大且保存最为完整的。如今，它已被联合国科教文组织列为世界遗产地。

这里有些房屋依然保留着它们原本的模样。现在已经没有人住在小镇的老中心区了，但小镇看起来就像是居民们随时都会回来一样。“这些房屋熬过了数个世纪，”卡米拉如是说，她是当地的一名历史学家，曾在这里的教堂受洗，其家族还拥有其中一所房子。“不过房子在建造时并没有使用钉子，这是为了在遇到火灾时，房子的主人能够在一小时内将它拆卸。所有的房子都是私有财产，周末时人们还是会回到这里。”

位于瑞典北部的这片森林中，在由顶尖瑞典建筑师群设计的树屋里，宾客们自行休息了，他们都清楚地知道自己所住的房间是世界上独一无二的。

“我们很想知道人们最期待在森林里看到什么。”布里塔说，她与丈夫肯特是树屋酒店的老板。“那就是鸟巢。于是我们建了一个鸟巢。每当我想逃离这个世界的时候，我就会来到这里。人们认为最不可能会见到什么呢？不明飞行物。于是我们也建了一个不明飞行物。它让我想起了我的孙辈。而如果我想要浪漫情调，我会喜欢这个小屋的。”

“我希望宾客们在离开时能够带着一种既有趣又神奇的感觉，”布里塔说。“我也希望这些设计能促使人们思考回归自然的意义。趣味、哲学和树木—这就是树屋所带给你的体验。”